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Old 20-06-2007, 07:50 PM   #27
Umineko
Karasu
 
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Melbourne Vic
Posts: 208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbo_yobbo
Im just a little concerned that if I cut the edges off, that there wont be enough contact area to provide a solid bond, as the underside of the bulge is hollow.

Could this work effectiveley.......
- leave the surrounding plate on the bulge
- drill 100 odd holes into the bonnet where the plate will sit,
- sand back the bonnet with super rough sandpaper
- sand the underside of the bonnet under the holes
- coat all in resin
- lay some fiberglass on the underside of the bonnet
- lay some thin fiberglass on the top side of the bonnet
(this way the fiberglass on the top of the bonnet bonds through the drill holes to the fiberglass on the bottom - hopefuly)
- then bond the fiberglass bulge to the fiberglass instead of the steel
- ad a thick strip of sickaflex for added hold around the inside of the bulge
- Fill the edges, sand the edges of the bulge and fill out so they taper down (so it looks flushmounted even though its not - hopefuly)
- prime paint and hey presto
.
It will certainly stick it to the bonnet but I can see a couple of problems, first while fibreglass resin is very strong when combined with fibreglass mat, used by itself (as in your resin rivet idea) it can be very brittle and will eventually crack as the bonnet flexes (which it will) secondly you'll have a lot of work to blend the whole thing in if you want it to sit flush, I have used the method I described to fit dozens of bonnet scoops over the years and have never had one let go, for added strength you could fibreglass a couple of lengths of wood inside the bulge (flush with the bottom edge) and then screw through the underside of the bonnet into the wood to hold it down, this would very effectively hold the bulge down then the edges I described earlier would reinforce this and provide a foundation to blend it onto the bonnet, drilling a hundred or so holes is not a good idea as it will only provide a hundred or so new places for rust to start, sikaflex will certainly glue the part in place but bear in mind it doesn't like paint, anything you paint on top of it will eventually crack and flake off, hope this helps
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