DFB's Garden

[DFB FGXR6]

The end of winter, and the moment I dread every year.....................potting.



I will say, now that I basically take charge of this task, I have implemented several changes to reduce the burden on both me and other staff. Simple changes that reduce fatigue on the body, reduce time wasting and improve overall organization. Does that sound like me?

For example, potting was always left to the very very last minute, then it was a mad rush to power through it, all with the increased customer flow brought on by Spring. Now, I start potting selectively mid-season, getting through surplus stock that reduces the load later on in the season. Most of that is stock that was always intended to be potted rather than sold bare root.

I also INSIST every batch (usually 5 to 10 trees, or per pallet) is stock balanced and converted to a potted barcode price immediately. Previously, it was always such a rush to just get them potted, then deal with the prices later. This then required a staff member (me) having to trapse through pallets of trees hunched over attaching prices to the bags in the days/weeks ahead. Doing it as we go, it also means I can sell the tree straight away if needed, no fumbling around for a price because "they have just been potted". This might sound like a trivial thing, but trust me, it was a nightmare that ended up being more time consuming than it should be.

Again, the rush to get everything in a pot meant we would go through and water everything at the end of the day. When you have something like 500 trees to thoroughly soak in less than an hour, well, it led to a half-ars.d job. Now, every pallet is soaked as we go, nothing missed, everything soaked properly to eliminate air pockets.

Speaking of pallets, this was never a thing. Trees would be potted and then dumped in lines of genus/species on the loading dock, something that would end up being a crazy maze of trees. They would then be loaded onto a single pallet and wheeled into the nursery on a manual pallet jack. So, you would end up triple handling every single potted tree.

Previously, we would load up a tandem trailer with potting mix to work from on the loading dock. For me, this created two problems. It meant having tow and maneuver the trailer, something I struggle with. Actually, I have since learnt how to maneuver a trailer very well with one of the Dingo's. Secondly, the height of the trailer meant having to be hunched over for hours on end, I think a lot of my back issues stem from this. Now, I load up the old Nissan Navara which is used solely for this task or ground maintenance. It's also a tipper, which makes it very valuable assest. The height of the tray is at the perfect height, meaning I don't end up folded in half at the end of the day.

When the potting is all finished, it then needs to make its way into the nursery for sale. Having everything on a pallet in genus/species order, means it can be fed into stock with less fuss.

It took me 20 years to make those changes as a whole, it can be very hard to change the mindset of guys who have been doing it twice as long as you. At the end of the day, they are no longer "hands on", so doing things their way at my expense makes no sense just because "that's how we've always done it". And yet, those changes make a big difference in how things function, no more "just winging it"............which I truly detest!







Most of it is now done, progress came to a halt after running out of potting mix this afternoon. Still to go are the fruit trees, which go into the same sized bag as the ornamentals, then the larger weeping trees which go into larger 75 LT bags............the ones I dread.

[DFB FGXR6]

Pieris Japonica, another one of those plants that sits in the background for most of the year before bursting into prominence in late winter. This variety is most likely 'Temple Bells', which features pure white booms instead of the pink that characterizes other Pieris. Growing to 1.5 meters tall and 1.5 meters tall, it will take decades to reach those figures.





Pieris are best grown in part to full shade, morning sun at the most as they will otherwise burn in the summer sun. As part of the Ericaceae family, they share genes with Azalea's, Rhododendrons, Erica's, Blueberries and Epacris, therefore preferring slightly acidic soil. After flowering, feed with a Camellia and Azalea blend in spring, keep moist over summer.

[DFB FGXR6]

Clivia Miniata doing their thing......................





The cultural information regarding Clivia suggests that these plants can be grown in full sun. However, in areas where I live, the summer sun would be too harsh, and without the cover provided by a tree or patio, they will burn with exposure to frost. A lot of people will have these potted so they can be moved to suit the weather conditions. They are otherwise best planted under established trees to provide the necessary cover during the cold months. Even so, you can see some burnt foliage after a frosty winter just gone.

The other thing to note with Clivia is their toxicity to animals. If ingested, the bulb in particular, Clivia is toxic to both cats and dogs, potentially causing symptoms such as vomiting, low blood pressure and cardiac arrhythmia.

This website has a good listing of plants known to be toxic to animals -

https://bloominghaus.com/news/poison...%20the%20plant).

[DFB FGXR6]

The tell tale sign of a lot of hard work and frustration...................



Back when I started in the industry in the early 2000's, it was peak "lifestyle TV". In that I mean backyard make-over programs like Ground Force (Channel 7, BBC) and Backyard Blitz (Channel 9). The trend on these shows was to use a lot of strappy, colourful foliage. But not only that, everything was waaaay overplanted to make the finished result look nice for the camera.

The result of that meant our top sellers were anything with a strap-like foliage, think Cordyline, New Zealand Flax and Yucca's. We would get truckloads of Cordyline and Flaxes each week, despite the boss hating them, that's what customers wanted. I think you know where I'm going with this.

Well, just like the backyard makeover programs, these plants looked brilliant after they were installed, especially with a contrasting mulch. However, what the cameras didn't capture is how this plays out 2, 5, 10 years down the road. Most of the Cordylines that were in fashion were the type that grew a single stalk, so as the plant grew and shed older foliage, you ended up with an ugly bare stem. Those Cordylines, and Flax's too, would grow waaay taller and wider than many expected. And Yucca's, what makes them incredibly resilient also makes them a giant pain in the ar.se. With water, they grow very fast and very strong. To remove, you need heavy machinery or a very fit young man with an assortment of heavy-duty tools. Some resort to yanking them out with a chain and tow bar, some set fire to the stumps. You will also destroy a chainsaw on them too. And your hands due to the razor-sharp foliage. And people wanted these things!

Now, I think we only keep something like 10 to 15 Cordylines and Flaxes in stock at any one time, max! Yuccas? Apart from some modern, manageable forms here and there, we haven't carried them in a very long time.

[DFB FGXR6]

These stunning Hydrangea's are at peak beauty.......................



These plants have had a nice ride so far, the summer heat has taken a while to arrive this year, with plenty of mild warmth to promote vigorous growth. With 44 degrees expected tomorrow, I doubt they will survive unscathed as the afternoon sun whips around and fries those delicate leaves and petals. I think the owner is going to cover them with a sheet, but if the wind whips up, that won't last long.

[FTE217]

yes Hydrangea's are popping as is many other flower varieties.
Chrissy bush !
Agga's a plenty.

I'm in dires straits having been away on biz for a couple of weeks with chrissy festivities coming up and entertaining fam on Xeve and day omg.
My garden needs a hell of alot of hours leading into the 24th !!!!!
Trimming
Wash down house/windows/frames
Plant some newbies
Gurnie paths/outdoor areas, have had tradies doing work the last few weeks between mixing mud/cutting timber/dust etc - I'm going anal OTT about the mess and to do List and this frigging humidity !!
Oh well, look at it as fitness and sweating the grog out haha

[Professor Farnsworth]

I've been into plants since very young - my Mum had a huge vegie garden and both she and my Dad loved their trees, they added much greenery to anywhere they lived. For the last ten years of being where i am now, i've planted out what was a completely baron back yard into a mini-forest, mainly with natives to attract the bird life. Put a pond in, a corner garden of Kangaroo Paw, but most of the rest of the garden is two gigantic apple & plum trees, a skanky year-round lemon tree, every colour of Callistemon you could imagine, several Grevilleas, and a Leptospermum that said it would reach a maximum of 6 feet, which is currently around 12 feet tall, even after half of it splitting off under its own weight a while back. We had two Agapanthus randomly self-seed, which are going nuts currently. I've got all of mum's old indoor plants in the shaded area, and trying to keep 8 new Boronia's going in challenging conditions. Also currently growing a couple of orange Callistemon, but they're still small and the bugs love them. Just re-potted an Elephant Bush that i've had since the 80s! Our soil is 85% clay, 15% discarded building materials, and -2% dirt, so it's very difficult to find trees and plants that will thrive here. Iris's pop up like weeds here though, as does the Italian parsley i keep shaking around each year.

[FTE217]

Onya Professor sounds good and yes growing round clay is a PIA what survives.
Used to use a lot gypsum to help break it done and stimulate growth.
I hear the influence parents have - we lived on a barron 1/4 acre perfect canvas and our Mum was a huge garden luver and outdoor doer.
My bro ended up being a horticulturist landscaper and I followed getting stuck in my own places.
I do enjoy it a lot and maintaining.
My wife is even nuts she’s out there at times weeding watering just before dawn many times - our kids her the crazy mum haha


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[DFB FGXR6]

Well, with recent changes, I'm not sure if I should have this thread deleted. A lot of activities posted in this thread were employment related, in some ways I'm proud of what I achieved there, but it's also a reminder of a lot of aggravation.

Thing is, for the time being, I'm still working for myself in the horticulture field. Perhaps that will make me fall back in love with the trade, no longer associating it with difficult customers, freezing cold winter mornings, 45-degree summer days standing in the baking sun, or dealing with other humans.

So, this thread will take a different direction or end up being deleted, what do you think?

[Tonz]

happy for you, I hope and dont doubt you will be very successful in your new venture, be able and WILLING to turn away the Karens that infiltrate our neighbourhoods.

[Trendseeker]

I vote to keep the thread and take a different direction, wherever it leads.

[Cav]

It's history, keep it.

[Trendseeker]

Originally Posted by Cav

It's history, keep it.

Yes, there is a lot of useful reference material in the thread that I missed reading as it’s a bit hidden away in this section. And it would be good to ask DFB for advice occasionally if he’s still happy to provide it (and willing to forgive the odd silly question from the amateurs)? Maybe it be moved to The Bar where it would have more visibility and maybe rename it to something like Gardening/Landscaping etc.?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Trendseeker

Yes, there is a lot of useful reference material in the thread that I missed reading as it’s a bit hidden away in this section. And it would be good to ask DFB for advice occasionally if he’s still happy to provide it (and willing to forgive the odd silly question from the amateurs)? Maybe it be moved to The Bar where it would have more visibility and maybe rename it to something like Gardening/Landscaping etc.?

There are sections of this forum that tend to get overlooked, that's one of the reasons why I wanted to keep the Detailing thread in the Pub section. I kind of want to rename the thread, if it was moved that would be great too.

And yes, I'm more than happy to answer questions, despite what some might think, I know enough to be dangerous after 20 years doing it for a living.

[FTE217]

Just let the thread roll on where it goes by the posts.


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[mad2]

Originally Posted by DFB FGXR6

Well, with recent changes, I'm not sure if I should have this thread deleted..

So, this thread will take a different direction or end up being deleted, what do you think?

easy answer for you DFB ..... NO .. leave it and let it run with what it has and is.

[DFB FGXR6]

Pruning 101!

Pruning is one of those taboo topics in the horticultural world, often surrounded by a lot of procedural snobbery. While certain plants do require specific pruning technique, but by and large, horticulturalists waaaay over technify pruning. To reference Tarryl Dactyl, “it’s a plant, not the space shuttle”. I also remember watching the legendary Peter Cundall throwing traditional horticultural practice out the window, especially when it came to rose or lemon tree pruning. I just wish I could find the video of him attacking a rose bush with a chainsaw, much to the shudder of all those stuffy horticulturalists that would have been screaming at the TV.



Having said that, there are some basic guidelines to follow that can help a plant bounce back from pruning quicker or prevent adverse effects. Many of these are things I picked up over the 20+ years working in the industry.

- Don’t be afraid, plants are more resilient than you think. So if needed, get stuck into them and prune HARD. I’ve been doing this long enough to know that hard pruning will often freak out the ladies, whereas the males hack away without thinking. Somewhere in the middle is where you want to be.

- Having said that, be mindful that not all plants like to be hacked. Plants in the Lamiaceae family such as Lavender and Rosemary really dislike being pruned back into hard/old timber. I always prune back to just above where fresh(ish) foliage begins, going lower will often kill the plant as it just can’t regenerate from old material.

- For the most part, prune after flowering. When a plant is flowering, it’s basically pre-occupied, so regrowth during this period will be slower. Naturally, this can be hard when a plant is flowering for most of the year, for example Abutilon Chinese Lantern or Polygala.

- Never prune fruiting or ornamental cherries in the winter. This also applies to maple’s, especially Canadian or Japanese maples. In this instance, the tree is holding a lot of sap with its branches, meaning you risk bleeding the tree out by pruning in the winter. For these trees, its best to wait until the sap flow has begun in the spring, usually after flowering (cherries) or the fresh foliage has appeared.



- For most other deciduous ornamental or fruiting trees, winter pruning allows you to better see the structure of the tree. You also have less material to compost or dispose of.

- Prune Citrus after fruiting, ideally after the last frost to prevent fresh re-growth being frost burnt. And don’t be afraid to cut them HARD, it will keep the tree productive and keep the fruit at a reachable height.

- Only prune Hydrangea’s back by a 1/3 in the winter. If you cut back too much, you will hamper the production of flowers in late spring/early summer.

- If a plant is burnt by frost or hot summer conditions, refrain from immediately pruning the dead material off the plant. That damaged material is actually preventing further damage if the heat or frost continues. Wait until the last frost or early Autumn, lightly feed afterwards to support the regrowth.

- If a plant is struggling, often a heavy prune will stimulate new growth in a fight or flight type of situation.

- If a plant is struggling and has a lot of die back, you need to follow that dead material back and prune just above live material. If you don’t, that material will keep dying back and prevent the dormant buds from shooting. If you are unsure, lightly scrape the stem with your fingernail or secateurs, brown or grey indicates dead material, green, white or pinkish colour will indicate live material. Keep scraping until you find live material, then cut to the closest bud.

- For hedges, try to avoid tapering the sides inward as this reduces the light at the bottom of the hedge and promotes a gappy appearance. Easier said than done, try to allow the base of the hedge to flair out a little.

- Pruning deciduous fruit trees is a little more involved, an area I’m not an expert in despite living in a fruit growing area of the country. As a general guide, prune in winter and while the tree is dormant. In addition to shortening the tree to a more manageable height, you want to remove inward facing branches to open the inner structure and promote good airflow. Apples and pears are a little more involved as they produce spur wood, remove too much spur wood and you won’t get much fruit.

- If you compost your green waste, try running over it with the lawn mower beforehand. This will speed up the decomposition process and considerably reduce the bulk of the material. Obviously, you want to pick your mark here and not try and shred down large material. During clean ups, I’d often throw pruned material and weeds onto the surrounding lawn, then run over the area with the lawn mower afterwards.



Roses!

When and how to prunes roses is such a contentious subject, most tend to either not prune hard enough or over technify the process. I’d much rather a badly pruned rose than one not pruned at all. Try to keep in mind the following points, but don’t get too hung up on them.

- Prune HARD! Unless you prune below the graft, you are not going to hurt the plant, in fact it will promote stronger regrowth and superior flowers.

- Yes, you should prune back to an outward facing bud, angling the cut away from the bud to prevent rotting, and remove inward facing material to promote airflow and limit fungal problems.

- I find it can be easier to just hit the rose with the hedger or chainsaw, then go back and make your final cuts.

- DON’T start pruning roses on the first day of winter. I see it every year, people step into the garden ready to cut their roses back on June 1st. But in this area, you risk the plant re-shooting while the weather is still frosty, which in turn burns off those new shoots and setting the plant back. I always suggest pruning roses as late as possible, say late July to late August.

- Deadhead roses HARD. If you don’t, you won’t get quality flowers, and the plant just gets bigger and bigger and bigger. This is especially important on stalky Hybrid Tea varieties.

- If you have a lot of roses, think about having a bottle of metho to sterilize your cutting implements periodically. Also, consider spraying the plants and surrounding soil with Lime Sulphur immediately after pruning to kill off any lingering pests and fungal spores (black spot). I tend avoid using it as I can't stand the stench, it will linger for days. Also, never use this on foliage, it will burn.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/yates-50...AhPSi8x6TJsEpd



Tools -

Like any profession, the tools you use can make a big difference in the finished result, but also the user’s comfort. I could make an extensive list specific pruning tools here, but for the most part, 98% of the time I’m using just a pair of good secateurs. Prices for gardening tools vary widely, and while you generally get what you pay for, sometimes spending extra isn't warranted.

The following pruning tools are what you need at a minimum, along with a couple of luxuries for larger gardens –

Secateurs – I’ve had a lot and used a lot of secateurs over the years, some were great, some were woeful. I would say avoid the entry level $10 pair from Bunning’s, those are junk. I’d also say you don’t necessarily need the top of the line professional Felco’s that I have used for many years. Yes, those Swiss tools are nice, but I’ve also loved using a basic pair of Gardena’s for $35.

Of the Felco’s, you want No.8 (for right handers) or No.9 (for left handers) with the angled ergonomic handles. These tools are pricey but can be rebuilt as needed –

https://www.forestrytools.com.au/pro...1j8xADPIaTvCcd
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/col...felco-8-pruner



Otherwise, these are the German-made Gardena’s I’ve been using –

https://www.mitre10.com.au/gardena-g...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



If you struggle with arthritis, something like these powered Bosch secateurs can help massively reduce the force needed to cut through thicker or hard material.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17398637...BoCnr0QAvD_BwE





Adjustable Loppers – You don’t technically need the adjustable aspect, but it comes in handy and can negate the need for a ladder. Again, prices vary, so buy to suit your usage frequency.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/cyclone-...ndles_p3361019
https://www.bunnings.com.au/wolf-gar...opper_p0448993

Small Pruning Saw – This doesn’t need to be big, ideally you want something compact for space restricted areas. I have a small Ryset foldable saw that punches well above its size and price point.

https://www.theseedcollection.com.au...hoCOFkQAvD_BwE
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...-sw68_p0541257

Pole Pruner – If you have trees, an extended reach pole saw and/or lopper is very handy to have. In my experience, just stick with the loppers, using a saw like this is cumbersome. At the moment I’m using the Fiskars version which has an adjustable angle for the loppers.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...runer_p3350854
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...runer_p3350853





Hedge Shears – Even if you have a hedge trimmer, a set of traditional hedge shears is still worth having for areas where the powered trimmer won’t serve. I’d suggest paying a little more on these, I’ve had some garbage examples over the years. The telescopic versions are handy to have as well.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...shear_p3350821
https://www.bunnings.com.au/fiskars-...shear_p3350823
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/sea...hedge%20shear*

Small Chainsaw – Not everyone will need this, nor would you fell a tree with one, but a small battery powered chainsaw can be a life saver on small to medium limbs and for taming overgrown shrubs before making more precise cuts by hand.

Battery makes most sense here because you bypass the hassle associated with petrol-powered saws, not to mention being cleaner and quieter to use. For most, I’d suggest choosing a saw based on what battery system you have. If you want to go with a garden-specific brand, I think Husqvarna have an advantage here (their website is total garbage though). I would however avoid the EGO chainsaws, they are poorly designed in my opinion.



Sharpening Tool - A sharp tool will always cut better, which benefits the plant and your hands as you need less effort to make each cut. Having a small lapping file or cutter is worth having on hand.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/eze-lap-...xoCQ7cQAvD_BwE
https://www.forestrytools.com.au/col...ulti-sharpener

Multi-Purpose Lubricant - Not gardening specific, but handy for maintaining your tools. I like the WD-40 Specialist Lawn & Garden as it both cleans and lubricates, which is handy for dealing with sap residue. On hedge trimmers, I use a lanolin-based lubricant such as Briggs & Stratton Protect-It.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/wd-40-40...icant_p3410104
https://www.bunnings.com.au/briggs-s...iCWl7Pe3yk-CL1
https://powermowers.com.au/products/...ra1yD9G_MEClVg



Final Notes –

Just get stuck in. A neighbor once told me that plants are tougher than you think, and she was spot on there. I’ve absolutely hacked the guts out of plants I thought would never return, only for them to burst back to life. Naturally, some plants you need to be careful with, but for the most part I say go for your life.

And that's your bloomin lot!

[Tonz]

when I was a teenager my older couzin was very involved with NZ rose society, he was mortified when at our place one day dad took the loppers to the rose bushes down to almost root stock. Then few months later was stunned at the blooms dad produced
Butcher and it will grow was dads response

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Tonz

when I was a teenager my older couzin was very involved with NZ rose society, he was mortified when at our place one day dad took the loppers to the rose bushes down to almost root stock. Then few months later was stunned at the blooms dad produced
Butcher and it will grow was dads response

I can't remember the number of times I've absolutely hammered a tree or shrub to the shock of a (usually female) client, only to see the plant respond and come back better than ever, often to great surprise.