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#1 | ||
_Oo===oO_
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,305
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Hi all,
I know manual Falcons can feel pretty agricultural/rough but I've been having what I think are some issues with my XR8. I'd like to suss out whether they're real problems, I'm making it up in my head, or 'that's just the way they drive' I find that some days she's easy to drive with a wide margin for error/sloppiness in timing shifts etc but most of the time a fair bit of concentration has to go in to drive smoothly. My issues relate to the clutch pedal, the accelerator pedal (and perhaps other bits and pieces?) Clutch: Take-up point is very high, and theres no more adjustment left. Sometimes the take up point is very defined, other times vague (but always in the same spot) I can hear a 'spring sound' most of the time I engage the clutch Sometimes I can feel a 'grating' sensation when I engage (snagging on the firewall?) However: Doesn't slip Gear changes are nice and tight/smooth (except reverse can be hard to engage sometimes) Accelerator Pedal/Other: Sort of 'notchy' (hard to accelerate smoothly) Hard to hold revs at a certain point Car feels like it has no power under low throttle, mash the pedal and it's too much. When the accelerator pedal is difficult, it makes gear changes difficult as revs generally drop to low, then the clutch can be difficult and I end up with some pretty clunky gear shifts. If I drive flat out (stall it right up, hard launch, shift at high revs), it irons out the shifts, but that's not really a fix! If anyone can offer any suggestions it'd be greatly appreciated! |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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With regards to the grating feeling when using the clutch pedal I would suggest that the cable will need replacing. When I replaced mine the inner had worn through the outer and was creating a lot of friction. I could not slide the inner through the outer by hand when it was out of the car. This also made it difficult to modulate the clutch sometimes. You will find it will be worn on the end the pokes its head through the firewall. This is due to the sharp change in angle from the firewall to the clutch pedal.
As for the throttle. I also have a very sticky point and I will be replacing my throttle pedal over the weekend as lubricating the throttle linkage on the motor did not help at all. Alternatively you can simply forget the problems and just let the windsor sing her song all day every day ;)
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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#3 | |||
_Oo===oO_
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,305
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Quote:
So you'll literally be replacing the whole pedal? If you could post your experience during/after installation that'd be very helpful. |
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#4 | ||
Tickford 220kw Windsor...
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sunnyvale - Housing Commission.
Posts: 4,269
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Both the throttle and clutch are cable operated. It sure sounds like both cables could be on their way out.
If your pedal engages right near the end of travel, and theres no more adjustment, then perhaps the clutch is well worn too.. Mine engages real close to the floor. Its funny watching others try to drive it as they all stall it the first time they try as did I. Id like to change mine to a hydraulic clutch setup.. Wonder if that can be done..
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1972 Falcon XY GT 351 Clevo 4V Big Port, 4 Speed Top Loader Manual, Ice Blue.... 2002 Tickford AU Series III XR8 220kw Windsor, 5 Speed Manual, Liquid Silver... __________________ AU Tickford Facebook fan page.. https://www.facebook.com/#!/home.php...25060040851023
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#5 | |||
_Oo===oO_
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,305
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Quote:
I'll do the cables first and see how we go. Has anyone got recommendations on a replacement clutch? Doesn't have to be a hard core heavy duty jobbie, just replacement for standard (unless thats a bad idea) There was a guy on the forums talking about hydraulic clutch kits for AUs. If you do a search it shouldn't be too hard to find. |
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#6 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Well I may have found the reason as to why my throttle was sticky as there was a heap of gunk in it so I am hoping this was the problem. So far from a short drive tonight it seems to have fixed the problem. I had the entire cable and pedal out and if there was a sticky point there I could not feel it with my hands.
![]() As for the clutch when you say there is no more adjustment. Do you mean there seems to be no more thread to wind the nut up on? If so this is probably due to the inner coming through the outer. If this is the case it will look like below. This is how much it has worn through in only 6months. Having said that the HD clutch does put more load on the cable and firewall so it would wear slower with a stock clutch. ![]()
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AU III Forte wagon - V8, 5spd man, lowered, 18" Honeycombs, Stock diff rebuilt with TruTrac LSD, Leather Ghia interior/dash, custom twin 2.5" into single 3" exhaust. Wagon Build AU I Forte Sedan - No longer
Toy Car Build |
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#7 | ||
_Oo===oO_
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 3,305
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Thanks for the pics bartsau. Is she still driving smoothly?
Great news on my part is that I decided to try spraying some WD40 on a few spots on the clutch pedal assembly/spring and the pedal assembly (inside the car) as well the throttle linkage under the bonnet and it worked a treat. For the accelerator pedal it's a complete 180 from where it was before, it isn't notchy at all, and very easy to modulate. It's transformed the way the car drives. The clutch pedal isn't nearly as noisy anymore, and is a lot easier to modulate (although the grating is still there) I'll get the clutch replaced soon, but in the meantime it'll be a lot easier to live with. The car's getting serviced on Saturday so we'll see exactly what state the clutch cable is in then. |
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