V8 Intake Pipes

b2tf · 07-01-2012, 07:39 PM

After some confirmation, I am about to order an intake pipe (doing it cheap through work just to see how I go with it) and I am planning on getting a 3" ID pipe with a 60deg bend, and a couple of 3" silicone flexi joiners.

I have 65mm TB and also the G&D Airbox setup but the bit that concerns me is the bend, is 60deg the right angle for our intakes?

If someone could confirm please.

Cúl-Báire · 07-01-2012, 10:57 PM

I would say 60deg is about right although I am unsure of what angle the intake runs into the G&D box.

Edit: oversize picture fail!

b2tf · 07-01-2012, 11:00 PM

Thanks, Ive seen that pic before. I'll order this gear in and see how I go. Less than $100 lost if it's no good anyway. I also have a mate who is a welder and very handy with this sort of stuff if it doesnt end up working the way I want it to (as simply as possible!)

brownieXR8 · 09-01-2012, 10:34 AM

I'm very interested to see your end result, and if it works would like the part numbers that you've ordered.

XH5LWEPN · 09-01-2012, 10:39 AM

60 degrees is spot on Austin.

RG · 09-01-2012, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XH5LWEPN

60 degrees is spot on Austin.

It is.......for the stock airbox intake location. G&D airbox shifts it a little.

A section of concertina connection piping will fix this.

b2tf · 09-01-2012, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RG

It is.......for the stock airbox intake location. G&D airbox shifts it a little.

A section of concertina connection piping will fix this.

Catered for that and have gone for flexible silicone joiners.

crakrz · 10-01-2012, 12:49 PM

I have done it slightly different to most, some will like it, some won't. I cut the elbow of my original intake tract which then still retains the original ACT sensor position, then used a straight section of 75mm exhaust, painted matt black. One silicone joiner put into very hot water to expand over the MAF and 2 extra clamps, all done. I basically copied this idea off Jimt3te50's T3 years ago.

raised by monkeys · 09-01-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brownieXR8

I'm very interested to see your end result, and if it works would like the part numbers that you've ordered.

x 2..

b2tf · 09-01-2012, 12:22 PM

Thanks Jeff, I will update when parts come in, alll easily available too. I only have a slight concern that the pipe I've got coming may not be quite long enough to go from TB to MAF but if it's not I have a backup option that should still work out ok.

Other than that tap a hole for IAT and it should be all good.

crakrz · 10-01-2012, 08:49 PM

Aw shucks, you fellas are so kind.

b2tf · 10-01-2012, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakrz

Aw shucks, you fellas are so kind.

Is there something that can be tweaked in QH to keep the engine bay clean?

crakrz · 10-01-2012, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2tf

Is there something that can be tweaked in QH to keep the engine bay clean?

If the answer to that was 'yes', does that mean you will join us sooner?

b2tf · 12-01-2012, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakrz

If the answer to that was 'yes', does that mean you will join us sooner?

No the answer would need to be 'yes and you can also tweak your bank balance too'. I'm going to do it but a few other priorities at the moment.

b2tf · 14-01-2012, 10:38 PM

I've made a little bit of progress this afternoon.

This is basically a bit of a dummy run of how the final product will fit up. I made this by copying crakrz' idea of cutting the elbow off the factory pipe, and using a piece of 3" pipe to replace the corrugated part. The silicone joiner at the MAF end is an off the shelf part and fits over the MAF and the pipe easily. So far this has cost less than $20 and I don't know if it's just me but I do think throttle response has improved a bit, but the primary aim of this is aesthetics not performance. I'm not happy with where the IAT sits so in the final result it will be underneath so it can't be seen.

The 60deg bend has arrived at work but it's a lot shorter than I expected so I will need to order some straight section and have it welded. I have a mate who is a welder who is going to give me a hand with it so once it's done I will do a full list of part numbers for those who want to do the same thing. Apart from the welding, all of the parts I am using are available through Autobarn (my work) but other shops would have something similar.

crakrz · 15-01-2012, 08:23 AM

Good work there Aust. You mentioned about welding two pieces together. Could an exhaust shop do a longer version for you? I think that's how some others have done it? You would have found that the rear clamp doesn't have much purchase on the rubber because of the radius at the base of the boss for the IAT sensor. I just trimmed about 2-3mm off the side of that to give the clamp some room. Once you get some shorter screws for your maf adapter, the finished product will very neat.

Sk8xr8, she's a daily family truckster, but I do try to stay on top of it. Thanks for your comments, makes the cleaning worth it then. Are you going to join us in Albury on the 26th Jan?
-Craig

b2tf · 15-01-2012, 09:38 AM

Craig

yes I did have a bit of trouble with the clamp near the IAT bung, there isn't much to get the clamp to hold on to. It is on there now though and hasnt let go which is good.

The material I'm ordering in is pre polished and to be honest I got one piece in hoping it was enough, but it won't be so I'll get another piece to match it and use that. If i hadn't have got the first piece in I wouldnt bother but I have it so I may as well use it.

The MAF screws will be changed too to clean it up and once it's done the manifold will likely get a polish. My welder mate is also making a new plate for the manifold (replacing the 5L V8 one) which will have a bit of a custom thing put on it.

It'll take a few weeks but should look ok once all done.

b2tf · 15-01-2012, 09:51 AM

The dearest bit is that I now think a 70mm TB is in order..........

crakrz · 15-01-2012, 10:05 AM

No real advantage Aust unless you have big plans. But if you do the cam and heads, then maybe. There are different airflow settings in the ECU for the different t/b sizes. But that won't be an issue for you soon, will it Aust?
-Craig

sk8xr8 · 16-01-2012, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakrz

Sk8xr8, she's a daily family truckster, but I do try to stay on top of it. Thanks for your comments, makes the cleaning worth it then. Are you going to join us in Albury on the 26th Jan?-Craig

Sorry mate, I missed this, whats in albury?

**auIILTD** · 18-01-2012, 12:55 PM

Albury Australia Day AFF meet. All are welcome to join us.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11347124

Stu

AU Mont · 15-01-2012, 11:13 AM

from the pictures posted above it looks as both of you have made the intake smaller ?

b2tf · 15-01-2012, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AU Mont

from the pictures posted above it looks as both of you have made the intake smaller ?

It's a bit deceptive but as Craig said the inside diameter of the intake does not change - it just smooths out.

I'm thinking about changing the throttle body purely for looks, 5mm extra isnt going to make a huge difference (if any).

crakrz · 15-01-2012, 11:17 AM

It's still 75mm at the inside diameter, so there is no change. It's just the wall thickness of the rubber making it look smaller.
-Craig

raised by monkeys · 18-01-2012, 03:53 PM

A little off topic, but regarding intake pipes and other air induction, has anyone put heat proofing around their pipes and box? Does it make a noticeable difference?

Cúl-Báire · 18-01-2012, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raised by monkeys

A little off topic, but regarding intake pipes and other air induction, has anyone put heat proofing around their pipes and box? Does it make a noticeable difference?

When first got my XR8 it had thermal wrap all over the airbox, and intake pipe. It little or no difference once I took it all off, other than making a right mess of everything!

My advise, is don't bother.

b2tf · 30-01-2012, 10:08 PM

I've just about finished making mine so I thought I would update with some part numbers and pictures.

This is the (almost) end result. A little more polishing, drill a hole to fit the IAT on the underside of the pipe and job done. This cost me less than $60 to have made including getting a bloke with a TIG welder to join the pieces, it would be about $150 or so at full retail price.

This is 2 pieces of polished alloy and 2 silicone joiners, 3" in diameter. I have a 65mm TB but I reckon with a bit of heat you could get one over a 70mm TB too - there's a bit of give in them.

All parts listed are Autobarn part numbers as that's where I work but you could get most of this from any good auto store and I know the pipes are available on Summit - just didn't want to wait that long.

1x 60 degree bend 3" I.D. PN 9469
1x 6" length of 3" I.D. pipe PN 9419
2x 3" ID flexible silicone joiners PN 8421
4x 76mm hose clamps PN varies on supplier but anybody will have them.

NOTE: 60 degrees is apparently the right angle if you have a stock airbox BUT since I don't (got a G&D one) I can't confirm this. Looking at it I think it would be right though.

There are different colours and sizes available for the joiners and there are also a few options to do with pipe - different sizes etc. Check here:

http://www.naparts.com.au/PDF/SEC1%2...ue%20LOW-2.pdf

crakrz · 30-01-2012, 11:39 PM

Great pics Aust, and good info to go with it. Can't wait to see some pics from the front when you are all done.

-Craig

**auIILTD** · 31-01-2012, 09:43 AM

Austin, how did you go about inserting the IAT? Pics, when you get it done?

Stu

raised by monkeys · 31-01-2012, 10:21 AM

im gonna be naive here, whats the IAT?