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12-01-2016, 03:25 AM | #1 | |||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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Quote:
I had already looked into the possible Technical Service Bulletin that addresses the less than stellar fit and finish of the evaporator covers allowing A/C condensation to leak water and not through the drain hose. But I did get a tip from that Bulletin where it suggests exhausting all other alternatives, to which I found below and helped by following the dampness pattern Turns out to be the A/C drain hose, specifically the foamy gasket on the lower white plastic fitting to the hole in the body, with the combination of exhaust heat shield that's butted up against the actual external drain fitting. The result is the drain hole being blocked to some extent and backlog of water, but the location of the actual drain tube is right where your left foot is, so with the loose fitting, water is soaking into the fibreglass heat shield backing and allowed to bleed back past the fitting soaking and partially leaking into and past the gasket. Any and all movement from the drivers foot squishes the water from the gasket (on the drivers foot well side) making the carpet wet. Also heavy rain allowing the same water ingress. The fix I used was simple Ultra Blue gasket maker (silicon) a small bead under and on top of the gasket and refit, it looked great and a tiny amount squeezed around the complete fitting so I know I have full coverage. 12hrs to cure and that fixed any water ingress, and this trip proved it with no water coming back from both A/C condensation (both 9hr legs) and torrential rain on the return trip. As for the Heat shield, I removed the first front section and pushed it forward as far as it will go. This gives access to the back end of the drain tube fitting, which you need to press the locking tabs to push the fitting back into the foot well for removal. On doing my fix I also shaped the heat shield to not butt up to the fitting and refit it. Problem solved. Oh and it felt so good and cold on a 40 something Deg day. Though there was two other issues I'll leave for another time, both not what you'd want on a Holiday trip. One costs $950 in the end and the other is me needing to retro fit a new fuel filter/water trap. Last edited by cobrin; 12-01-2016 at 03:37 AM. |
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29-01-2016, 10:33 AM | #2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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Thanks for the info on damp Cobrin. Will you post details on the other issues?
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27-03-2014, 10:23 PM | #3 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 99
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Well I hand back my MC Titanium tomorrow. A bit over 120,000 kms in 3 years and the only problem I had was 1 blind spot indicator not working on delivery and fixed at the first service. It’s on its third set of tyres (inc the originals) and the current Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2's still have a little over 1/2 the tread left (great tyres). I did go through 2 sets of rear brake pads though which is kinda weird oh and 1 battery (I'm sure the dealer scammed the lease company on that) and this week a message came up on the dash saying the battery in the remote needs changing. I could easily live with it for a few more years if the lease didn’t expire and I wasn’t picking up something a bit more exciting tomorrow. I would definitely recommend 1 to anybody so if your sitting on the fence about buying 1 just do it, its the best Ford I’ve ever had and a class above the BF2 Fairmont Ghia I replaced it with.
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19-04-2014, 12:29 PM | #4 | ||
Pommy Ford tragic
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Crescent Head
Posts: 26
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Hi all. I recently picked up a 50k MB XR5 in silver. The back bumper section is slightly off colour to the rest of the car, although I can't see any obvious signs of it being repainted.
I've noticed a white car and another silver car in the last week with the same issue. Has anybody else noticed this on their cars?
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I got nuthin. |
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19-04-2014, 06:37 PM | #5 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Perth WA
Posts: 98
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Hi Mud
Most car bumper don't match these days as the undercoat is different on the plastics to the car body and never quite match. A good spray painter will do a much better job of matching both surfaces. |
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19-04-2014, 08:06 PM | #6 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
Posts: 882
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I have the moondust silver TDCI Zetec and it's very close (to the point you'd not notice it on a quick glance) but definitely not exact, as above it's the slight difference of paint on plastics.
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20-04-2014, 09:58 AM | #7 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 213
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Red camry's used to be terrible for the mix match in bumper colour. The would be a totally different shade.
On another note I will do a proper search when I'm on a computer that works properly but has anyone had any luck in glueing the top of the door trims back on themselves? all 4 of mine have come unstuck almost to the actual bend in the door trim..
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In the garage 2010 Triton GLX-R Dual Cab. So good to be back in a manual. 2008 MA TDCI MONDEO, recently became somebody elses problem haha. 1988 EA Fairmont Monza Red 3.9L CFI - the project beast. On hold for now. 2013 Nissan Pulsar ST-L - The better halfs car |
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22-04-2014, 04:29 PM | #8 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 50
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I had three replaced under warranty, I think they have self adhesive, but do not know what would be best glue to use.
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2007 MA Zetec Mondeo Sedan Tango |
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21-04-2014, 06:15 PM | #9 | ||
Challenge Accepted!
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Under the Southern Cross
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I'm not sure as I haven't checked but, how is it mounted, can't you put it back in the grooves/clips/other before looking at gluing?
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22-04-2014, 01:52 PM | #10 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 34
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Thanks rich. Looking forward to hearing if that fixes the issue.
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2011 Mondeo Titanium Hatch, TDCI |
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11-05-2014, 08:48 PM | #11 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 12
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Just coming up to 30000km and the crankshaft seal needs replacing. Still waiting for the call back when the parts arrive but the outside temp sensor replaced @ 14000km took 12 weeks! Driver's side curtain airbag rattle right at ear level is annoying. A couple of attempts at fixing have resulted in it being no better. Rear side panel (passenger side) keeps popping out. Ford blaming the towbar installation that they did for the problem. Other than that it's great!
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17-05-2014, 12:03 PM | #12 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: melbourne
Posts: 83
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I have just had the big resonator removed from my ecoboost ( all ready had sports put on the rear).with a new set of rubber ..the problem is it sounds so so so much better I just want to keep driving.which means more fuel used.
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Fords Forever Last edited by mas89; 17-05-2014 at 12:08 PM. |
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10-01-2015, 10:16 AM | #13 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 16
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Mondeo battery (2008 TDCI) flat. I had Battery World come out and replace. Once replaced Anti theft armed and car was a big inoperable lump. Battery world tech could not fix. I was arranging a tow to Ford when my mate disconnected the battery for 5 minutes and car was good as new.
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14-01-2015, 09:02 AM | #14 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 45
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Over Christmas and new year, check engine light comes on and car (MA Zetec) struggles to accelerate. OBD scanner spits out a p2008 code. Turns out to be a faulty solenoid which was replaced and car is as good as before. CD drive fault. Cds already inside will play but won't load any cds any more. Least of my problems as I don't use it that much any way. Intermittent faults with cruise control, drops out after engaging or won't engage at all. Faults can't be reproduced at repair centre as it is working perfectly now. And before Christmas, rocker gasket cover was found to be leaking.
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28-01-2015, 11:45 PM | #15 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 1
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On the way back from Ballarat, my 2011 TDCI Mondeo displayed an 'Engine Malfunction' error, and put itself in limp mode. Took it to the dealer, and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. Bit of a worry that the car didnt store the code, but the dealer tells me there is nothing recorded.
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22-07-2015, 01:05 PM | #16 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
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Any had the issue with the park lights on the driver side only coming on after parked and the right hand indicator coming on randomly while driving. Sent my battery flat and a real pain in the backside.
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22-07-2015, 05:06 PM | #17 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 22
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Quote:
So if the indicator is coming on randomly while driving, it may be getting into this same position at night and just triggering the sensor enough to make it think you have told it to turn the lights on. You can try the blinker configuration at home and see if what I have stated above is true. If so, maybe apply a small amount of pressure on the arm to see if the lights come on with out much force at all. It may be a new blinker arm mechanism is required or I could be completely wrong..... |
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25-07-2015, 09:12 AM | #18 | ||
Zetec MC Hatch TDCi
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 61
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Had a similar problem last year however it was the left hand side mucking up.
Indicator stalk/unit was replaced under warranty. Took several weeks for dealer to get the part. |
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31-08-2015, 01:11 PM | #19 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 172
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2014 Mc lx tdci wagon (company car)
Broke down at 14k, needed to be towed to dealer, both engine light & trans fault displayed. Apparently it was a leaking fuel rail? Plastic guides on the cargo compartment cover broke within the first month, apparently not covered under warranty. Rattle in the roof lining from new, fixed at first service. It's done 28k now and the dsg is playing up. It hesitates (even more than usual), feels like it's slipping when given a hard time & shift erratically. Think they should remove the letter "f" from "power shift" for a more accurate description of the gearboxes in these cars. |
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02-01-2016, 06:26 PM | #20 | |||
Regular Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 172
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Quote:
Cruise control working intermittently, turns itself off when you slow down with the "-" button. Radio display won't display anything if direct sun light has be on it on a warm day. |
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23-09-2015, 02:47 PM | #21 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,256
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2010 MB TDCi wagon, registered in 2011 and coming up to 60,000 km. I expected to do a much higher mileage, but circumstances changed.
After 4.5 years, it's just developed a creak from the centre console. No other rattles or squeaks, unlike the early MA that I had. It has some minor oil seepage from the sump, which isn't worth fixing at this stage. So no real issues at all, still on the original battery and brakes, although the rear pads will need replacing soon. Consistently gets at least 6 l/100 km on trips with the boot full of tools. I have backed into a few things that were in the left rear blind spot, but that's not a reliability issue! I drove a MC last year, which certainly felt livelier with the Powershift trans. But the MB is smoother to drive around town, and I don't think there's much difference when in "manual" mode. I almost traded it on a Passat wagon when it was 4 years old, but after a long test drive, I drove the Mondeo home and thought why would I want to change? The bling on the R-line was tempting (runout deal), but the Mondeo is a nicer drive. And after my MA experience, 1 wouldn't buy the new Mondeo until it's been in production a couple of years.
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. Last edited by NZ XR6; 23-09-2015 at 02:51 PM. Reason: typo |
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23-09-2015, 03:03 PM | #22 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 179
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That and all Passat TDi's are about to get gimped when they turn the environmental controls on full time.
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Mondeo 2011 MC Titanium TDCi. Ink Blue. RIP: Mondeo 2008 MA TDCi. Colorado Red, Leather, Bluetooth, sunroof, Tow pack. C.R. Tech tuning box |
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14-11-2017, 02:12 PM | #23 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 3
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Current problems on MC 2011 diesel wagon are:
1. When turning ignition key on hazard lights come on and tail gate unlocks, only happens intermittently, usually 1st thing in the morning. 2. Engine malfunction light comes on occasionally for no apparent reason. Engine sometimes but not always goes into limp mode. Any ideas or similar experiences would be valued especially before I take it to Ford and lose my shirt. |
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23-01-2018, 07:08 PM | #24 | |||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 3
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Quote:
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24-01-2018, 02:17 PM | #25 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 13
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My MD 2.0 ecoboost had its engine light come on and dealer checked code which was P0420. Could not find a fault and just did the usual reset but it came back on a week later. Checked again and same code and now am booked in for new catalytic converter. Bit odd as do longer runs every few days. I also run it on 91ron which I am told is fine and the book says is OK and I don't notice any noticeable difference to 95ron and can't justify the 20c price difference.
Morts I have read that a dodgy blocked converter can cause problems like yours but it would be unusual if a warning light did not come on. |
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24-01-2018, 09:28 PM | #26 | ||
Starter Motor
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 9
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Thanks Blue17, so far no warning lights at all.
Picked up a OBD2 today & with the Forscan App have managed to extract this data with the car still & idling Code P1169 FRP Sensor in Range but High Additional Fault Symptom: - Signal Amplitude Greater Than Maximum Status: - DTC Maturing - Intermittent at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: Powertrain Control Module I guess as a first step I check all the wiring harnesses & have a listen to see if I can hear if all the injectors are clicking regularly??? |
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23-09-2015, 03:04 PM | #27 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,256
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I am really pleased I didn't buy it!
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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28-09-2015, 02:59 PM | #28 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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I run two MC wagons. They are 2011 2.0 diesel models with powershift transmissions. At 125000km on each car I've had near zero problems. One had a coolant leak. Changing the heater hose required a special remotely operated plier to get the clip off. Best things are the handling and the long distance between filling up. Average fuel consumption is 6.2/4 l/km.
Servicing is a bit expensive though. |
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30-09-2015, 12:40 AM | #29 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Auckland, NZ
Posts: 1,256
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Servicing shouldn't be expensive, there's not much that needs doing. The Ford dealerships rip us off in a big way. I do my own servicing now that it's out of warranty.
The Powershift fluid changes would cost though.
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MB Mondeo TDCi wagon, sea grey, on MAK Invidia 16" wheels. |
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30-09-2015, 03:42 PM | #30 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 805
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The powershift transmission fluid change is not expensive if you do it yourself
using FUCHS DCTF. I use the 20 litre containers, the shelf life is uncertain but looks good to me so far. The main problem for DIYers might be getting the car up and level. If you don't have access to a hoist, you will need some combination of multiple jacks and jack stands to do the job. Otherwise it is fairly simple. I use Forscan to check transmission temp, which should be 35 to 40 deg C. I use a bubble level also. Have done it 4 times now over the two cars. Kangaroos are my main worry. |
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