New to cycling - Page 72

blueoval · 17-11-2015, 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adz193

Made a purchase of my own finally after a month or so of deliberation... loving it at the moment! Spent a bit more then I originally planned for but oh well, was worth it. Excited to hit the road and get into it... how do I join the AFF group on strava?

image

Is that a Trek Emonda? Nice bit of kit. My mate bought the SLR8. 10k worth

**Captain Stubing** · 17-11-2015, 02:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adz193

... how do I join the AFF group on strava?

At the top of the Strava page, click on the drop down tab 'Explore -> Clubs' then type in AFF Crew.

mik · 17-11-2015, 02:32 PM

Just for a shameless pic of my treadly and a bit of a laugh .........

GTpilot · 17-11-2015, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NTF6

For those that don't want to pay the exorbitant primo price for Strava then what I do is pay for Cyclemeter Elite which is just under $7 a year (Strava is just under $7 a month) which I prefer over the Strava app anyway, it just doesn't have a web interface.

Then cyclemeter automatically uploads to your free Strava account within a few minutes of pressing done when your ride is finished ready for you to view.

What does cyclemeter elite give you strava free does not? You can still auto upload with the free version of strava and access lots of goodies, there are just more features available with the premium version, many folks won't use them though. https://www.strava.com/premium

To be honest, for a featured piece of software like strava and all the development that gets done, as a senior technical manager for a large online company, I can appreciate what it takes to run something like that. I'm happy to pay for it.

some great features here too. http://labs.strava.com/projects/

There is also a massive community with strava too. I have met many folks through it that ride similar routes to me, even live nearby. Organised group rides (Speaking of which, Melbourne based folks - who's up for it?) are also frequent.

It's not littered with ads to pay for an infrastructure to stand it up and store all your data either.
Theres direct integration with a shed load of devices that actually works as well as features fed back to those devices that work most of the time......Hello Garmin, hows live segments coming along?....

For the money IMHO its well worth it, I resisted it for years opting to use other apps, but at the end of the day I succumb and I'm glad I did.

**Captain Stubing** · 17-11-2015, 03:00 PM

I can see why you hate the seat, Mik!

I think the seat isn't to support your cheeks, like an armchair, but more to support the bony bits a lot closer in.... they're called the 'sit bones' but I didn't know what that was till I started think with my backside...

GTpilot · 17-11-2015, 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

Just for a shameless pic of my treadly and a bit of a laugh .........

Another red rocket.. sweet!
One word of advice though..please get rid of that seat though and get one that suits you.. your back side will love you for it..

as mentioned before bigger and more padded it not necessarily better. Position, both height and angle, also make a world of difference, My favourite saddle feels like crap at the wrong angle, a decent LBS will have loaners they can let you test with, you might be surprised...

mik · 17-11-2015, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

I can see why you hate the seat, Mik!

I think the seat isn't to support your cheeks, like an armchair, but more to support the bony bits a lot closer in.... they're called the 'sit bones' but I didn't know what that was till I started think with my backside...

agreed , the seat is horrible, modifications to come .

mik · 17-11-2015, 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GTpilot

Another red rocket.. sweet!
One word of advice though..please get rid of that seat though and get one that suits you.. your back side will love you for it..

as mentioned before bigger and more padded it not necessarily better. Position, both height and angle, also make a world of difference, My favourite saddle feels like crap at the wrong angle, a decent LBS will have loaners they can let you test with, you might be surprised...

You got me on that one, i did that chair modification last night before the ride, i think it made it worse :( , one thing Im going to do is get rid of the seat post , it sort of has a bracket that doesnt allow much seat angle adjustment, the seat will get the kyber too

.

mcnews · 17-11-2015, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NTF6

Go tubeless my friend and all your woes will be gone. I got home from a ride the other day and pulled at least 30 big double gee prickles from my front tyre alone that all leaked air when I pulled them out, then I spun the front wheel a few times and no more leaks, I even reckon it only lost a half a PSI in total while sealing back up. Brilliant.

I carry a spare tube but that is just in case I rip a side wall.

On the five punctures in one ride I was running tubeless. First puncture sealed itself, second time wouldn't seal until I played with it a fair bit and pumped it up again only to get further up the track for it to fail to seal in another hole so had to pull the tubeless valves out and put a tube in, then 10km later, another tube etc. etc.

T

NTF6 · 17-11-2015, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcnews

On the five punctures in one ride I was running tubeless. First puncture sealed itself, second time wouldn't seal until I played with it a fair bit and pumped it up again only to get further up the track for it to fail to seal in another hole so had to pull the tubeless valves out and put a tube in, then 10km later, another tube etc. etc.

T

Well I don't know what your doing different to me but in the last 4 months I've had dozens and dozens that would leak when the prickle was pulled out, just rotate it to the bottom where the liquid is and it seals in a millisecond, next mornings ride the tyre hasn't lost any pressure. I go weeks in between checking my tyres air pressure and in those weeks I've had countless punctures that leak air when removed but seal up almost instantly. If we're talking holes from 4 inch nails then you may not be so lucky.

Are you using TR tyres and the sealant that is for TR tyres?

Also there's TR tyres for about $30 and TR tyres for $75, some are better than others.

adz193 · 17-11-2015, 06:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by swanny

At the top of the Strava page, click on the drop down tab 'Explore -> Clubs' then type in AFF Crew.

Thanks... Couldn't find it on the app on my phone!

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

Is that a Trek Emonda? Nice bit of kit. My mate bought the SLR8. 10k worth

Sure is, only the SL6 though... Loving it so far! Yeah the SLR's look incredibly good

mcnews · 17-11-2015, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NTF6

Well I don't know what your doing different to me but in the last 4 months I've had dozens and dozens that would leak when the prickle was pulled out, just rotate it to the bottom where the liquid is and it seals in a millisecond, next mornings ride the tyre hasn't lost any pressure. I go weeks in between checking my tyres air pressure and in those weeks I've had countless punctures that leak air when removed but seal up almost instantly. If we're talking holes from 4 inch nails then you may not be so lucky.

Are you using TR tyres and the sealant that is for TR tyres?

Also there's TR tyres for about $30 and TR tyres for $75, some are better than others.

Yep bike work on by very experienced guy that I ride with. Just luck of the draw and that ride a was a bad one. Had been bombing down rocky stuff at high speed the week before.

The same area we rode in a group a couple of weeks later, and that was when we had about 15 punctures between eight riders... Was crazy.

So yes tubeless is good, but certainly not foolproof, and if going far afield out of mobile reception always still take a tube.

NTF6 · 17-11-2015, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mcnews

Yep bike work on by very experienced guy that I ride with. Just luck of the draw and that ride a was a bad one. Had been bombing down rocky stuff at high speed the week before.

The same area we rode in a group a couple of weeks later, and that was when we had about 15 punctures between eight riders... Was crazy.

So yes tubeless is good, but certainly not foolproof, and if going far afield out of mobile reception always still take a tube.

Agreed.

I smash a lot of gnarly down hill rocks as well but I rarely run my tyre pressures over 25 psi front and rear.

mik · 21-11-2015, 05:43 PM

i have cable operated disc brakes on the bike front and back , and they work well, the pressure required to make them work is very easy for normal pulling up, i had to pull up a bit quick today while going down a hill , weight transfer the rear locked up and it was all the front brake doing the work , it was struggling a bit , probably because of my weight no doubt, it did the job , but i would have liked a bit more stopping power.
just wondering can you get dual front brakes ?

**Captain Stubing** · 21-11-2015, 06:20 PM

I can't recall seeing them, Mik. The other option for disc brakes is hydraulic operated which I have on my mountain bike.
The disc brakes pull up a lot quicker than the caliper/rim brakes on most road bikes though...

mik · 22-11-2015, 02:34 AM

Thanks Swanny i`ll sus them out.

Streets · 26-11-2015, 12:00 PM

Does anyone have any experience with those little stands that you use to turn your bike into a stationary bicycle? I'm too lazy to go outside anymore.

These sort of things: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-INDOO...-/221772406504

Do they work with mountain bikes? Can you go hard on them or do you have to be careful not to tip over?

blueoval · 26-11-2015, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streets

Does anyone have any experience with those little stands that you use to turn your bike into a stationary bicycle? I'm too lazy to go outside anymore.

These sort of things: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-INDOO...-/221772406504

Do they work with mountain bikes? Can you go hard on them or do you have to be careful not to tip over?

They are ok, but you may not get much of a workout on them as the resistance levels on the cheap ones dont really...well...resist. A fluid trainer will give you the best results if you are using it for fitness. As you spin faster, the more resistance it builds and you'll find it is a better way to train.

A mag trainer will be ok but after a while it won't provide you with the resistance you need as good as a fluid trainer. Don't get me wrong it will be fine for basic use.

As for getting on or off, they are pretty sturdy, but you some caution getting on or off the bike. When you on it, you do feel fairly solid.

These are compatible and adjustable for all adult bikes.

I have a CycleOps fluid trainer https://www.cycleops.com/catalog/trainers-rollers#

bArNsY · 26-11-2015, 12:43 PM

If you are looking at indoor trainers have a read of this to help you decide what is right for you. http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/11/2...endations.html

mik · 26-11-2015, 01:03 PM

i had a go on a home made one some years ago, it was basically a bit of plate with a couple of uprights secured to the axle, it didnt look as good as the one in your link, but i could still motor along on it ok..... so to speak, i dont see a mountain bike as being a problem as long as it fits ok and its sturdee.
if memory serves a fair bit of noise came through the floor through the stand into the floor , it worked better on a bit of carpet mat.

**DJM83** · 26-11-2015, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

i have cable operated disc brakes on the bike front and back , and they work well, the pressure required to make them work is very easy for normal pulling up, i had to pull up a bit quick today while going down a hill , weight transfer the rear locked up and it was all the front brake doing the work , it was struggling a bit , probably because of my weight no doubt, it did the job , but i would have liked a bit more stopping power.
just wondering can you get dual front brakes ?

Again never seen dual front brakes. Whilst cable discs are ok, they are prone to cable stretch just like a normal rim brake, whereas hydraulics dont really suffer from that. I have Deore hydraulics on my Giant with as big a rotor as you will find, 203 on the front and 180 on the rear, the stopping power is pretty full on even with a little air in the rear line that i need to get looked at.

SRAM make a 4 piston caliper now aswell.

SumoDog68 · 26-11-2015, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Streets

Does anyone have any experience with those little stands that you use to turn your bike into a stationary bicycle? I'm too lazy to go outside anymore.

These sort of things: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-INDOO...-/221772406504

Do they work with mountain bikes? Can you go hard on them or do you have to be careful not to tip over?

I ride on stationary trainer a lot . To ride effectively you need some sort of resistance . I am Using a road bike , wahoo kickr trainer and zwift or trainer road software. This combo tracks power, cadence ,heart rate and trainer can work in ergo or free mode. This way you can do structured training , intervals at set power etc. When connected to zwift you can race other people , sprint or climb in virtual reality :-) . Naturally this night be overkill for many but provides much better motivation than staring at the wall while suffering :-).
For a simple system Lemond revolution ( direct drive , fan resistance , most realistic feel ) is great if a bit noisy at high speed .
If you prefer to keep your rear wheel on Kurt Kinetic is well proven and durable.
Most trainers will accept 130 or 135 mm rear spacing if direct mount. For roller type mtb knobby tyre will be an issue - they work better with smooth tyre.
As for going hard - some of our strongest (track) cyclists go all out on them so they are pretty sturdy .

SumoDog68 · 26-11-2015, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mik

i have cable operated disc brakes on the bike front and back , and they work well, the pressure required to make them work is very easy for normal pulling up, i had to pull up a bit quick today while going down a hill , weight transfer the rear locked up and it was all the front brake doing the work , it was struggling a bit , probably because of my weight no doubt, it did the job , but i would have liked a bit more stopping power.
just wondering can you get dual front brakes ?

Most bike brakes are more than sufficient , especially disc variety. Limitations are in tyre traction , weight distribution and rider experience.
You don't need brake upgrade as long as they are adjusted properly and pads and rotors are in good nick . Modulation while using front and rear brakes simultaneously is the key and on down hills you need to keep your weight on the rear wheel or behind.

mik · 26-11-2015, 05:04 PM

Probably in my case the weight is the problem, if I was an Indian they would have called me "two blokes".

roKWiz · 26-11-2015, 06:17 PM

I'm enjoying this cycling thread, been a long time MTB rider and collector of U.S made Cannondale Super V's.
I'll post some pics if anyone's interested.

Top_Ghia · 26-11-2015, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roKWiz

I'm enjoying this cycling thread, been a long time MTB rider and collector of U.S made Cannondale Super V's.
I'll post some pics if anyone's interested.

I'm interested. Post away. I have a real soft spot for Dales as my first real mtb was an old Jekyll with a lefty max. What a great bike. I currently have a SuperSix roadie.

prydey · 26-11-2015, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I currently have a SuperSix roadie.

I have a CAAD8.

Batmobile · 27-11-2015, 12:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bArNsY

If you are looking at indoor trainers have a read of this to help you decide what is right for you. http://www.dcrainmaker.com/2015/11/2...endations.html

I consider myself pretty lucky as I have access to a Watt Bike .. I have been doing 10k intervals , monitor in particular average watts per kilo , and time over the 10k
I had been using the Lemond with power meter , and thought for the price it couldn't get any better as an indoor trainer - I was wrong the Watt Bike is streets ahead - however it comes at a high price

DBourne · 27-11-2015, 10:16 AM

please delete

roKWiz · 27-11-2015, 02:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I'm interested. Post away. I have a real soft spot for Dales as my first real mtb was an old Jekyll with a lefty max. What a great bike. I currently have a SuperSix roadie.

Yeah love the Cannondale's. Like my trucks, they're all heavily modified. don't do stock.

Still got my Jekyll, I bought it new but didn't like the cheap Manitou forks it came with as it was a 'poverty pack' 400. Eventually will fit a lefty for it.

Here's some of the Dales, my viper red 'V' is now 20 years old and like brand new and yes I ride drop bars offroad...
below taken in 1995 at Warrah Trig over looking the Hawkesbury.

And it present look, highly modified. TEST... can you ID the components ??

This is the Super V Raven, aluminium spine and carbon wrapped.
It was an US ebay basket case I rebuilt using updated drivetrain.

Rebuilt still have to strip the swingarm for polishing.

below. Super V1000 active ebay bargain highly modified with what's known as a Ubber upgrade.
Rear air shock is replaced with longer travel stable platform model, swingarm is drilled out further up the pivot, front shock is swapped out for mountain spring and Super Fatty air cartridge. giving a plush 6 and 5 inch travel.

Post some more soon.