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#1 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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I've looked at the factory manuals posted online for regular AU, haven't found an XR supplement. Got an XR6 AU2 ute for which this inquiry is about.
My question is, does the XR front bar have a "deflector" underneath it like a regular AU front bar? Mine, as acquired, is just open. It's not good that way as the trailing lip has got snagged a few times when reversing and now has a two inch tear near the middle - plus it hangs down obviously and looks daggy. Would appreciate any info, whether links to an XR supplement of the manual, or pictures, or a verbal description. Have popped it all off right now to replace condenser and flush AC lines fully (compressor failed big time) - would like to know what I might have to chase down or any DIY improvements. Cheers. |
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#2 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,216
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Yes. The AUII XR does have the black plastic deflector, the standard falcon one.
I have had my XR ute since late 2001 and never had issues with it catching. There are prongs on the front of the deflector that engage the lower lip of the bumper, 2 screws at each side end and a tab in the rear middle that is screwed to the black crossmember. cheers Bill
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AUII XR6 VCT ute 20 years and still going strong! |
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#3 | ||
Next upgraded Mk1 Leopard
![]() Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Sydney, in the burbs
Posts: 4,908
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He is correct. Good luck with the air con, the deflectors easy to get from wreckers
Uk
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Plastic Surgery 1 AUII Monsoon Blue How 2's: Change rear view mirror, Install backfire valve, Change foam front seats, Install auto transmission cooler, Replace Trans Shift Globe, Remove front door Trim, Paint AU headlights, install door spears, Premium Rear Parcel Shelf, go here...
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#4 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Newcastle NSW
Posts: 7,890
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What you are after is called a Radiator Deflector Panel but it is NLA from Ford. It stops the air coming thru the front from taking the easy route under the radiator.
As suggested the wreckers is where you may find one but finding an undamaged one may take a while. There are also two "hanger brackets" one each side that attach to the chassis rail and a screw goes up thru the panel into the bottom of the hangers for more support. The panel is the same for an AU base model , XR, Fairlane or T series
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T3 TL50 #147 Silhouette Auto ESS - Brembos - Last of 3 in T3 spec, only AUIII TL50 ever built -14.2 sec @ 98mph bog stock. Only customer ordered T3 TL50 built, only LWB sedan plated AUIII and the last performance enhanced LWB sedan built by Ford Aust. AUII Fairlane Ghia Sportsman 5.0L in Blue Pearl OWN THE ROAD |
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#5 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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Cheers gents, this one has lived a hard life - I try to improve on any area that gets worked upon. The whole bumper is a sorry tale of bodgy panel shop repairs and stripped rivnuts.
Good to know the range of models to donate the deflector is not limited. Done a lot of swearing at the AC hardlines, especially that pipe saddle held on by the one compressor bolt you can't remove without dropping the compressor (resolved by use of a stud-headed bolt off an Alfa). |
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#6 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
The condenser you call fill with A/C flushing fluid and rinse out, then gently run some compressed air through it. |
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#7 | |||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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Quote:
Even the evap had fine grey metal dust through it, obviously finer than the orifice; I bought a new one but elected to flush the old as it was 8 fins/inch whereas the aftermarket was 5 fins/inch. Took three solvent flushes with standing time and agitation inbetween, to come clean. External corrosion wasn't bad at all on the evap. ...Think I'll have to get a subscription membership here, too many situations would benefit from images and the default limit is quite low. |
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#8 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Sth Coast NSW
Posts: 1,512
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Quote:
Yeah, doesn't seem the low pressure switches work very well, my EL's compressor destroyed it's scroll assy, the case had a casting flaw and leaked inside a mounting bolt hole, so you could only see an oil leak when you removed the compressor. This was after I replaced the front seal and main bearing. I did use the refurbed front end on another compressor though. I'd replaced the evaporator, so flushed the condenser and new receiver/drier. Your accumulator will be full of rubbish too. Have you got another compressor? When I replace the shaft seal, I shim them(0.5-1.0 mm)as they wear a groove in the shaft, and will leak again otherwise. I get my seals from these guys, this one is for the AU's Sanden FS-10 https://www.polarbearinc.com/index.c...62/ss-0731.htm . |
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#9 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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Still plugging away, getting a bit OCD and cleaning things. All the underbonnet AC bits reinstated except drier - need access for heater hose clamps. Have observed the tensioner leak is now quite bad...
Two more questions, I read per Bayford or Jefferson’s or Adtrans (can’t remember which) that the AU XR front bumper uses different trailing corner mounts to the regular front bar. Is this true or just a misunderstanding? Next quessie, the wiring in the front corners is a mess, I presume there is some cable management gone missing. Any pointers of where I can find pictures of a tidy and original adaptor harness behind the headlights? |
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#10 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,216
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Quote:
Cheers Bill https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-AU-...kk9:rk:12:pf:0
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AUII XR6 VCT ute 20 years and still going strong! |
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#11 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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Thank you. It shows I’m completely missing the splash shields around both light modules! Aargh!
Actual wiring “hygiene” as shown in the picture where you can just see the refrigerant line, is no better than mine so I’ll use some OEM type releasable cable ties and unused holes for a better look. |
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#12 | ||
DIY Tragic
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Sydney, more than not. I hate it.
Posts: 21,764
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I tidied up the front bar structure today with a bit of shonkmanship. As mentioned before, the bottom centre was bellied, cracked and grazed.
The solution came as a 950mm length of 20x20x3mm aluminium extrusion. I worked it into a flat curve to follow the bumper’s trailing lower edge, this took some effort using hammers and a softwood block. (I left the working marks as a brag.) Then I fixed it 30mm inboard of the rear edge using eleven 316 grade M5 button head capscrews, large flatwashers and nylocs. With its inset positioning, when I find an undertray there won’t be conflict between the two items. ![]() ![]() |
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