How to (sort of) change the thermostat on a 2.0L Duratec

BlackLS · 10-04-2009, 04:28 PM

For almost a year I've suspected that the thermostat wasn't working properly, the usual traits were:
- Slow to operating temprature on cold start
- Temprature would drop to 1/4 guage (~75deg) when overtaking someone on a cold night

So a new thermostat was purchased and away I went.

Here's the area of the engine to work on - the thermostat is right next to the waterpump pulley which is under the belt tensioner, so the tensioner will need to be removed (or the intake manifold, I took the easier option)

The right (or so I though) thermostat to go in...

Tensioner moved out of the way. Tensioner is held on with 3 10mm bolts.

Lots of grit from the belt's rubber

Yay my car IS a Euroford

Getting a better look at the thermostat housing you can see 2 8mm bolts, there is another one at the bottom as well :( For that I used a 8mm socket connected to a extension for a drill, and wound that around with a little spanner. Note to self get some flexible drill shafts.

And here is the thermostat housing

In which the thermostat is built into it. Next to it on the right is the thermostat Ford sold me, which I gather is for the LR.

BlackLS · 10-04-2009, 04:32 PM

Oh yeah sorry about the pic quality, I had to take them with the camera inside a Glad snap lock bag.

NZ XR6 · 10-04-2009, 06:19 PM

Sorry, are you saying that the thermostat can't be removed from the housing?

BlackLS · 11-04-2009, 12:25 AM

Thats correct, all one unit.

819_FLY · 12-04-2009, 01:16 PM

Interesting, I would've thought that Ford would be able to decipher the difference between LR and LS/LT Thermostats.... They only have to deal with 5 or 6 different model cars and they can't get that right.... hahaha mildly amusing, but unfortunate on your behalf mate...

Tj-zetec · 12-04-2009, 03:54 PM

that looks like a pain of a job compared to the LR.

I know it's different but the LR has a two piece housing. The 'top' piece which has the hose fitting unbolted from the bottom piece, in which the thermostat was sandwiched in between.

The entire housing unbolted from the head in one piece however.

BlackLS · 12-04-2009, 04:05 PM

Yeah my mum's LR is very similar to the E-series Falcon cooling system.

Mullett · 13-04-2009, 05:03 AM

Yup, that's been standard in most cars since the invention of the wheel. Having it as all one peice is a pain in the ***, and probably increases the cost DRAMATICALLY. Either way, take it back, and when they give you the price for the proper one, go off your TITS at them and demand a discount for your lost time to pull it apart and put back together because they supplied the wrong part.

On the note of warming up, how long does your LT take? On a warm perth morning (18deg or so) mine takes about 200m of gentle driving, on a really cold morning (4deg or so) maybe 500m. It warms up faster than any car I've ever seen or been a passenger in, and notably faster than a friends LS.

-RM.

BlackLS · 13-04-2009, 08:13 AM

Apparently the design of the thermostat/housing is for the provision of the secondary WOT thermostat solenoid which is controlled by the ECU ans set to open at WOT if the car temp is greater than 80deg. At least that was the case with its spec in the 2001 Mondeo, not sure if that was ditched for the LS

On a warm morning it takes around 5-10kms.

Mullett · 13-04-2009, 07:01 PM

That's a hell of a difference. I wonder if mine's a freak, or if they changed something for the LT. I'm always nice to cars until they warm up, so this is great. Pull out of drive way, 1st roundabout, smack the redline :P

-RM.

BlackLS · 17-04-2009, 12:02 PM

So Ford Macathur swapped the thermostats over and I have the right one. Will get more pics of it going in over the weekend.

819_FLY · 19-04-2009, 01:56 PM

Yeh I was surprised at how quickly the coolant temp builds up.... some cars take an infinity to get to operating temperature, but the Duratec seems to have it sorted out quite well.

BlackLS · 20-04-2009, 02:21 PM

The thermostat is on the inlet side of the engine probably has a bit to do with it.

Tj-zetec · 20-04-2009, 03:18 PM

The water temp in the XR takes no time at all. It's the oil temp that takes some time. Still not all that long though.

BlackLS · 28-07-2009, 03:27 PM

So I finally was able to put the right thermostat in last weekend, and its fixed me right up - heat coming from the vents after a min or 2 of idling. Just before changing the thermo I could drive for an hour and have the temp sit at 75deg the whole way after taking 10 mins to get there.

Tj-zetec · 29-07-2009, 11:39 PM

You'll probably find the engine gets to operating temp quicker too.

I had a VL (i know i know) and i discovered after having overheating issues that the thermostat had been removed.
I was told there is a misconception getting around that removing the thermostat and therefore increasing water flow helps cool the engine better.
When in actual fact it's quite the opposite. I was told that if the water is moving too fast, it doesn't have enough time to exchange heat out of the engine and actually works worse in cooling the engine.
And when the engine is cold, there's nothing keeping the water stationary to let the engine warm up.

Completely irrelevant to your conversation but just one more useless tid-bit of knowledge I've acquired.

BlackLS · 30-07-2009, 01:28 AM

Agreed very handy to know.

BlackLS · 03-08-2009, 12:26 PM

So the thermo change went a treat, at the right time too - In this climate the heater is needed ASAP!

DZFord · 02-07-2011, 07:32 PM

BlackLS, if you're still around, I owe you a big thanks for your guide.

My car has had the same symptoms as you mentioned, for at least the past 6 months - slow to get up to temperature, and my tempature would drop fairly dramatically on the freeway.

So today I changed the thermostat on my car, using your guide + my Haynes manual. Can I say, it was an absolute #$@! of job - accessability to the thermostat retaining bolts was crap, even with the belt tensioner removed. Once I got my thermoastat out, I realised it was stuck open. If anyone attempts this job DIY, it may be worthwhile removing the alternator as well, it will make your life easier, especially when getting to the lower 8mm bolt.

Anyway, just took it for a test run and now it is up to temp. in 2 mins. Much happier now.

Also took the opportunity to lubricate the EGR valve, which has been throwing CELs lately. The valve was seized. Again, accessability was a real problem and took way longer than what it should of!

BlackLS · 05-07-2011, 10:30 PM

Hey mate, just by the off chance I thought I'd check in here tonight. Yeah it was a PAIN of a job, a little 1/4 socket set and ratchet would work well here. Dropping out the alternator is just as hard, even with the thermo fans removed. I would recommend also removing the radiator.

Is your Haynes manual a book or online? Any chance you could get me the article on EGR valve? A phone pic would work ok.

DZFord · 06-07-2011, 10:18 AM

Luckily I have a mini 1/4 ratchet and socket set. Have never really used it until the weekend just gone.

The Haynes manual is a book. I'll try and get you the article sometime this week.

Here is a photo of the EGR valve:

It is located on the passenger side of the block, near the top of the engine. You can unclip the wiring and then remove 4 screws holding the upper (black) part on. This exposes the valve. The valve should be easily to manually depress. If not, it is probably stuck due to carbon build up and a little WD-40 should help to free it up.

Note that one screw is hard to get to - you have to have the screwdriver on a slight angle - so be careful not to strip the head of the screw. Also have some needle nose pliers handy to grab the screws and washers once they are out.

One day I will remove the whole valve assembly to clean it. It is held on with two bolts, one being an absolute pain to get to. I bought a new EGR gasket from Ford for a couple of dollars. A coolant line does run up into the valve, so will have to drop the coolant first, or perhaps clamp off the line.

bluovl 6 · 10-07-2011, 09:19 PM

wow the LS series makes the LR one look easy i had to replace the housing on my missus 2.0ltr auto its on the back of the head bloody plastic housing
cracked just pulled the battery and the silly bag its in out and easy as job and Rebel Ford had to order the part i got it the next day at my front door with a new thermostat as i told them i had no way of collecting it from them car has done just under 130,000kms and apart from that nothing has actually broken just wear and tear not even a globe has blown (touches wood)