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02-03-2010, 08:24 AM | #1 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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Hey All,
Well yesterday was an interesting day NOT!!!!! I was driving through Canberra when my clutch pedal disappeared into the floor. I had no clutch and I was not leaving my car in the ACT, so I managed to get it into gear and limp back to Cooma. long story short I went to my mechanic and he found that the hinge at the top of the pedal had cracked and that it is a pretty common fault with the AU falcons. how long do welded up pedals last should i be saving up my $$$ to get the pedal replaced? any info would be good. |
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02-03-2010, 08:27 AM | #2 | ||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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The welds are probably stronger than he original, but this is a common fault on all falcon manuals from XP throught to FG.
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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02-03-2010, 12:10 PM | #3 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 46
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How'd you limp it home?
Get it rolling off the starter motor? |
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02-03-2010, 01:50 PM | #4 | ||
AU00
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Sydney
Posts: 47
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I have just priced doing this to my XR8 and they qouted $1400 to replace the pedal box and another $900 to do the clutch as well.
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: http://www.aufalcon.com.au/cgi-bin/index.cgi?act=item&i=549 |
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02-03-2010, 05:27 PM | #5 | ||
Mr blue
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: WA Perth Hills
Posts: 122
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Get it welded and see how you go but to replace a pedal box inst cheap, but it depends were exactly it has cracked as to the cost of a fix unfortunately
Good luck with it, post up on how it goes
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Venom-Red AUII Forte
Engine Mods:| 4499's Pacies | 2.5" single muffler Redback Cat back | Hi-Flow Cat | Custom intake 3" | SS CAI snorkel | BM Hi-Flow Filter | Visual Mods:| Clear side indicators | Tickford Wings | XR dash cluster | Black gear surround and shifter | Painted brakes | 18" BF XR8 mags | Black chrome tail lights My Build |
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03-03-2010, 08:49 AM | #6 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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Yeah the limp home was interesting I had to jam it into 1st when the engine was off and start it rolling with the starter motor, so far so good with the pedal, we will just have to see how she goes.
The biggest problem was all the bloody red lights in the ACT everytime I came up to a set the car would stall and I would have to start it from the starter motor again. Once I was rolling it was a case of just putting a bit of pressure on the shifter and once the gear box and engine were at the same speed it slipped into gear. you can drive a manual without a clutch but its probably not good for the poor car. |
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03-03-2010, 10:39 AM | #7 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 1,334
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Quote:
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03-03-2010, 11:13 AM | #8 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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yeah the box is getting a bunch of TLC since the clutch went.
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04-03-2010, 03:44 PM | #9 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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Hey All,
How do you adjust the clutch pedal? |
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04-03-2010, 06:02 PM | #10 | |||
AU DIE HARD
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Between 2nd and 5th gear
Posts: 5,073
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From the engine side at the cable ware it goes through the fire wall has a long thread with a nut on it, screwing it in will lift the pick up point, out will drop the pick up point. this is the only photo I could find from another thread ATM.
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........Age and treachery will ALWAYS overcome youth and skill....... CORTINA 250 2V POWER soon to be AUXR8 Windsor pwrd .............WINDSOR WARLORD WHO CARRIES THE CLEVO MAFIA AND BROKEN BOSSES... .................................................. Quote:
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04-03-2010, 06:35 PM | #11 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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well the adjustment went without a hitch the clutch is now ok but in the process I found that the pin that the pedal sits on is bent to buggery.
And the welding job is bloody shocking, never going back there again, my grand mother could weld better than they did and she is 3 parts blind. Now onto my new project "pedal box reconstruction" From what I can see there are 9 bolts holding the plate that the pedals attach to onto the underside of the dash. Now I was told that it was a huge job to change the pedal box out, from what I can see all that needs to be done is to remove the 9 nuts and disconnect the brake and clutch pedals then slide the unit around the steering column. Can anyone provide any info for me to do this cause I aint paying someone to remove and replace the pedal box. Also how much have people paid for new pedal boxes? Cheers all. |
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04-03-2010, 07:24 PM | #12 | |||
Miami Pilot
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ACT
Posts: 21,703
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Quote:
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The Hammer: FG GTE | 376rwkw | 1/4 mile 11.793 @ 119.75mph 1.733 60' (4408lb) 1 of 60 FG MK1 335 GTEs (1 of 118 FG Mk 1 & 2 335 GTEs). Mods: Tune, HSD/ShockWorks, black GT335 19” staggered replicas with 245 & 275/35/19 Michelin Pilot sport 5s Daily: BF2 Fairmont Ghia I6 ZF, machine face GT335 19” staggered Replicas with 245s and 275s, Bilsteins & Kings FPV 335 build stats: <click here> Ford Performance Club ACT |
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04-03-2010, 07:46 PM | #13 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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here is a pic of the welding job
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04-03-2010, 09:31 PM | #14 | ||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Melbourne, Vic
Posts: 1,121
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Firstly to get the pedal box out you need to be pretty nimble.
You need to undo all of the nuts there should be 6 or 7 can't remember against the firewall and 2 up joining it to the bottom of the steering column. Then detatch the clutch pedal the is a clip holding it on to the pin which is then welded to the pedal box. (You also need to loosen of the clutch cable and disconect this to allow the clutch pedal arm to be completely removed. Now you can detach the brack pedal from the arm to the booster along with the wire connector for the brake light switch. Now the fun part. You need to get the brake pedal arm seperated from the pedal box in order to swivel the pedal box around the steering column in order to remove it. You need to again take a clip of the 'rod' thingy that the brake pedal arm is attached to (this is a pain in the *** to get as it is concealed on the drivers side. You have to go by feel. Once this is off you are almost ready however in order to rotate the pedal box you will need to pull (from the engine bay) the brake booster fowards otherwise the arm from this will still be in the hole in the middle of the pedal box stopping it from rotating for removal. Once out you will see better how it all works. Should only take a couple of hours. I have a spare pedal box (keeping for myself cause i feel mine is on its way out. So i will try and get some photos soon and this will show how it is all assembled. Cheers, Rhys
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07-03-2010, 08:50 AM | #15 | ||
Regular Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 394
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well Pedal box came out no worries, it took all of 15 minutes to remove and replace, the pedal box has now been welded up properly and is like new.
I will keep you all posted when it goes again. |
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07-03-2010, 12:07 PM | #16 | |||
FF.Com.Au Hardcore
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Melb north
Posts: 12,025
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