Smart bloody alternators

[Burmic]

Hello all
New to the forum, and need some help from all the ranger oracles.
New caravan has a smart 3 way fridge which changes supply depending on what is available, Gas 12V, 240V.
My dilemma is i have a 19 XLT3.5 and want to run a lead from the start battery to the rear to supply 12v for the fridge as they no longer wire the fridge to the caravan house battery.
Do i use a VSR or will this interfere with the alternator variable charging.

Any relevant information would be greatly welcomed:

[EBSXR6]

Originally Posted by Burmic

Hello all
New to the forum, and need some help from all the ranger oracles. :

I would message a group moderator requesting them to move your post to the relevant Ranger Group, you are likely to get more responses.

[Franco Cozzo]

Originally Posted by Burmic

Hello all
New to the forum, and need some help from all the ranger oracles.
New caravan has a smart 3 way fridge which changes supply depending on what is available, Gas 12V, 240V.
My dilemma is i have a 19 XLT3.5 and want to run a lead from the start battery to the rear to supply 12v for the fridge as they no longer wire the fridge to the caravan house battery.
Do i use a VSR or will this interfere with the alternator variable charging.

Any relevant information would be greatly welcomed:

Unfortunately I'm out of the game for a long time now but when the PX was first on the scene you just ran your negative lead from your anderson connector on the rear to the body of the vehicle.

There's a sensor in the negative lead that determines electrical load on the vehicle and if you bypass it by going straight to the negative terminal it causes issues with your electrical accessories.

You could also have Ford turn off the smart charging bullshit with their OEM scan tool.

Not sure if PXII/PXIII this is still the case,

I'd have the fridge connected up to the house battery, not sure why that isn't the case because surely you'd want the car charging the house battery as you drive and then the fridge running from the house battery.

I'd use 6B&S for both positive and negative leads to a 50A anderson connector, given the length of the run, with a 60A MIDI or MEGA fuse in the engine bay for it.

Negative to vehicle chassis/body on the car side.

However this could be completely irrelevant as PXII/PXIII are past my time and maybe their smart charging systems work differently

[66 coupe]

Being a 3 way fridge it will use a 12v heating element which draws around 15 therefore that element should not be connected to the house battery,
If its a dometic fridge, refer to the relavent installation manual as it shows in there multiple ways it can be wired and also split fed (so the dc element only can be run off the vehicle battery, which ideally should be through a relay switched by the ignition so it wont flatten the vehicle battery also, when the engines not running)

Smart alt in the case of the fridge isnt going to make any difference.

[swamp]

hi
3 way fridge should be connected to car battery via ignition ""ON"" relay. Use 50A Anderson plug . 13-16mmsq cable
small 3way 10--15amp
large 3way 20--25 amp

Best practice for van battery is to charge with a 25--40amp DC to DC charger. Connect with 120amp Anderson . Use 25mmsq cable

[prydey]

Originally Posted by 66 coupe

, which ideally should be through a relay switched by the ignition so it wont flatten the vehicle battery also, when the engines not running)

Smart alt in the case of the fridge isnt going to make any difference.

This is how I did mine.

Ignition switched relay. 6b&s to a rear Anderson. Earthed to the body, not the battery.