Car Detailing - What products are your go to?

[DFB FGXR6]

The newly updated MTM PF22.2 Foam Cannon has just gone on sale in the USA, Australia hopefully following closely behind. This represents MTM finally listening to the calls for a wide mouth bottle.

https://www.mtmhydroparts.com/collec...-2-foam-cannon
https://www.mtmhydroparts.com/collec...-bottle-3-pack









Now, I have been running these foam cannons for three years now. The key benefit of these foam cannons over others is the more efficient consumption of the soap solution. This is something I have verified side by side with an older Waxit branded foam cannon, which goes through the contents of the bottle considerably faster. And yet, even with the added efficiency, you still get exceptional foam from the MTM.











But like any product, there was room for improvement. The earliest versions of the PF22 had a sexy looking bottle……………that would tip over if not completely full of liquid. MTM partially addressed this with the 22.2 update, the bottle reshaped to be wider at the bottom to prevent it tipping over. And yet…………………..it still tipped over when empty. This stems from the heft and bulk of the FP22 cannon body, which is much chunkier than key rivals.









Another irk was the lack of a wide mouth bottle to make filling easier. I will say, I have never had a wide mouth bottle foam cannon, so I have always managed with the FP22.2’s narrow opening. The key to success is to fill the bottle with water first, then add the soap at the end. There were also complains of the plastic bottle not threading nicely with the brass foam cannon body, although I have never really had much problem.







With the latest update to the PF22.2, MTM have redesigned the bottle to have a wide mouth and a bayonet fitting. Retooling for a new foam cannon body would have been very expensive, so MTM designed a plastic adaptor to mate the old brass body to the new bottle. Some have complained that this is a half-assed approach, but take a look at the competition……………they are doing the same thing. My only concern would be the durability of the bayonet fitting.

Now, at the moment, in the USA MTM are only offering the new PF22.2 as a full assembly, along with replacement wide mouth bottles. I have been told that there will be the ability to convert an older PF22.2 via the adaptor and replacement bottle. At the moment, I can’t find those on the MTM Veloci website as standalone parts.







As it stands, I won’t be buying another PF22.2 foam cannon, I already have two that would be a prime candidate for the upgraded parts. So, in addition to selling the new units in full, here’s hoping the local retailers stock the required parts for a conversion.

[CyberWasp]

Also if you look around the Net at Print On Demand Sites you could probably make your own graphics / stickers for your plain white buckets to customise to what ever you want on them.

[Franco Cozzo]

Is there any stronger car wash on the market than Chemtech CT18/CT20? I've been having success using it on the shitbox fleet at work and my own shitbox fleet at home but curious to know if there's something even better for cleaning really dirty cars?

[fatgas]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Is there any stronger car wash on the market than Chemtech CT18/CT20? I've been having success using it on the shitbox fleet at work and my own shitbox fleet at home but curious to know if there's something even better for cleaning really dirty cars?

https://shoplubricants.vivaenergy.co...000l-300012790


That or Imperial Leather

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Franco Cozzo

Is there any stronger car wash on the market than Chemtech CT18/CT20? I've been having success using it on the shitbox fleet at work and my own shitbox fleet at home but curious to know if there's something even better for cleaning really dirty cars?

A quick look at CT-18 reveals the product is pH neutral, so in theory it's not as aggressive as you may have thought. In which case, something like NV Snow+, Carpro Lift or Gyeon Foam should offer you more cleaning power due to their elevated pH levels, all testing above pH 12 in my testing. Out of those, I find Lift has the edge.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...32379093712985
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...nt=17821163396
https://www.repco.com.au/car-care-pa...rch=q2m%20foam

(You can see Lift dissolving dirt under the wiper arm)



However, this would be a candidate for Bilt Hamber Touchless or Auto-Foam. Both are very high alkaline soaps that can do some serious cleaning without even touching the car. In this instance, you foam the product onto the surface allow it to soak WITHOUT drying (ask me how I know this is important), then rinse. These products remove most of what's on the surface so that when you do hand/contact wash, you're not trying to mow through so much dirt.

https://www.detailstore.com.au/colle...-touch-less-5l
https://www.detailstore.com.au/colle...r-auto-foam-5l

I haven't yet tried Auto-foam as I'm led to believe it can leave a film behind that would require a hand wash afterwards, but I have used Touchless and I think its the one to go for. I tested this on a service loan car that was covered in bugs, mud and road spray. I foamed it on, left to soak, then pressure washed it off. I then hit it with some Gyeon Wet Coat, mainly to help blow dry. The finished result was remarkable, you would hardly know that not a single finger touched the vehicle.









I just wish I did proper before and after images of the above because the end result was remarkable.

From what I can gather, you wouldn't agitate/contact wash with those two soaps, especially if you are trying to preserve a wax or sealant, a ceramic coating would be fine though.

You could also look at Koch Chemie Active Foam or Super Foam, but they are very expensive.

https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...aline-pre-wash
https://autobuff.com.au/products/koc...aline-pre-wash

[FoxtrotGolfXray 5.0]

For the packing peanuts convo...

https://pelacase.com/blogs/news/biod...acking-peanuts

Interesting observation here:

Cornstarch and water do funny things when you mix them together. Bits of cornstarch become suspended in water - this means that they are being held in the water, but are not really dissolving or breaking up in the water. Because cornstarch bits are so tiny it looks like they are fully dissolving and 'disappearing' in the water.

[DFB FGXR6]

Day 3 –

Brands showcased today included Gtechniq, Detailers Roadmap, Scan Grip, Optical Films, IK Sprayers, Buff and Shine, and Stoner Car Care.

Finally, iK have unveiled battery powered versions of the Multi-pro and Foam-pro. While these still have a plunger, the base of the cannister houses a battery powered compressor that can deliver 8 - 10 on tanks of fluid per charge. It's pretty noisy in operation though, which pressurizes the tank then cycles on and off as needed. These don't appear to be ready for sale just yet.

[DFB FGXR6]

Day 4 (Final Day) –

Today included presentations from Koch-Chemie, Colorlock, The Rag Company, LC Power Tools, Lake Country Manufacturing, Optimum Car Care, Road FS and Konig Wheels

KCx showcased a new tire dressing, alkaline wheel and tire cleaner, and a foaming ceramic sealant. Interestingly, they pulled the covers off a new rinse-less wash. Mandarin Tea scented, this is a polymer-based product and is diluted at the nominal 256:1 ratio. Curiously, the pH of 4.0 is somewhat low but apparently helps mitigate water spotting.

https://theragcompany.com/collection...rinseless-wash

TRC themselves recapped several new tools and accessories that have launched in recent months, including the new Ultra Safe Sponge for rinse-less washing.

https://theragcompany.com/collection...ra-safe-sponge

Optimum presented new versions of Hyper Compound and Water-less Wash, along with a new Power Wheel & Tire Cleaner.

[DFB FGXR6]

Latest delivery from CarCareCo featuring the just released P&S Frostbite.

https://carcareco.com.au/product/ps-...ow-foam-946ml/



Frostbite was only unveiled in the USA this time last week, so it's quite unusual to get a just released product so soon in Australia.

The DIY Waterless Wash is something I have been wanting to try for a little while now.

https://carcareco.com.au/product/diy...ss-wash-473ml/

The concept of the Rip-n-Rag is not a new idea, I've had bulk towels like this before. However, the point of difference with The Rag Company offering is the quality. Despite the low 190 gsm and the multi-purpose job description, the 70/30 blend delivers a quality towel at a low price. For perspective, an 80-count roll delivers a per towel cost of 0.87c. Instead of using shop rags or paper towels, I like to use this sort of towel for checking oil, machine maintenance, oil changes, polishing exhaust tips, adhesive removal...................

https://carcareco.com.au/product/the...ofiber-towels/

[anobserver]

'Morning all,

Been looking at my somewhat white car lately, noticing it has noticeably yellowed in the last six months and probably needs a decontamination clean.

Sigh.

Given it spends most of the time locked in a garage, washed and spray protected, Im disappointed. But anyhoo....

In the decon thread, DFB posted his preferences for Carpro IronX, Gyeon Iron and NV Purify.

Can anyone suggest over the counter retailer alternatives that adequately do the job? I have a window of opportunity and a postal item may not arrive in time.

For example, SCA lists Chemical Guys iron pro, Bowdens own three way prep, Turtle Wax Pro Iron and Autoglym Magma in stock.

[bangm001]

Hi DFB, is the $384.00 price on the first DA Shinemate polishing kit a good price (says 31% off)? Do you recommend anything better for the polishing and finishing products if one was to use this kit and require more or are the ones that it comes with pretty good?>

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Hi DFB, is the $384.00 price on the first DA Shinemate polishing kit a good price (says 31% off)? Do you recommend anything better for the polishing and finishing products if one was to use this kit and require more or are the ones that it comes with pretty good?>

That price is hard to beat, just stick with the 250ml compound kit. The good thing about that kit is the size of the machine is very approachable if you have never used a polisher before.

The blue pad and S20 Black will pretty much do everything you need on Ford Australia paint. You would probably order another set of pads, or at least some more blue pads.

[FTE217]

bangm I still use what DFB quotes above, does the job with ease once you get the hang it in no time.....
Buy lots of red masking tape varied width for future jobs.
Only thing you'll wish for next is having the smaller
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40522590879833
to get in the tight areas with ease lol but thats the detailing bug you'll get soon enough ROFL......

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by FTE217

bangm I still use what DFB quotes above, does the job with ease once you get the hang it in no time.....
Buy lots of red masking tape varied width for future jobs.
Only thing you'll wish for next is having the smaller
https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40522590879833
to get in the tight areas with ease lol but thats the detailing bug you'll get soon enough ROFL......

This is one of the reasons why I recommended going the next step up from the Enthusiast Kit in a previous post.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...40476520317017

The Enthusiast machine is basically a 3-inch unit with a 5-inch backing plate and a smaller orbit. The larger EX610 makes for a more defined role as a dedicated 5-inch machine, which then leaves room for the smaller EB210 or EX603.

[Top_Ghia]

I started with the shinemate EX620 5 inch kit and it’s an awesome place to start. It’s a great polisher.
I’d never used a polisher before that and first used it on my 1 day old Mustang GT with stunning results. I started with the soft pads and finishing polish’s and worked my way up.
After 2 or 3 years I felt the urge to get a smaller machine so bought the shinemate eb210 kit. It’s a great addition and extremely versatile.

Neither kit I would consider high end but I think they will last me many years and work really well.
I suspect Rupes would give you a more premium feel but they will cost nearly twice as much.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I started with the shinemate EX620 5 inch kit and it’s an awesome place to start. It’s a great polisher.
I’d never used a polisher before that and first used it on my 1 day old Mustang GT with stunning results. I started with the soft pads and finishing polish’s and worked my way up.
After 2 or 3 years I felt the urge to get a smaller machine so bought the shinemate eb210 kit. It’s a great addition and extremely versatile.

Neither kit I would consider high end but I think they will last me many years and work really well.
I suspect Rupes would give you a more premium feel but they will cost nearly twice as much.

The ShineMates are easily the best of the mid-range machines. The Rupes (and Flex) tax is very real, and while I have a couple, they are not twice as good. While I love my iBrid Nano, its way overpriced for what it is.

[FTE217]

Yes the Shinemates are the perfect medium for the home enthusiast types like us.
Look after them they’ll last for a long time and importantly do the job with ease.
I enjoy using mine a lot.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[bangm001]

If i was to buy more pads for the shinemate, which pads should i go use the same as original shinemate ones in the kit? Which colours do you usually use the most?

I cant recall reading much about keeping pads clean whilst polishing other than brushing after every panel. Is there any other vital maintenance to a pad if i was to use several in a full day of polishing?

[Top_Ghia]

I like Lake Country HDO pads.
They are a lot better than the Shinemate pads. I can’t even say why.
But they seem to work better and last longer.
You’ll need an air compressor to blow out the pads between passes.

[bangm001]

Originally Posted by Top_Ghia

I like Lake Country HDO pads.
They are a lot better than the Shinemate pads. I can’t even say why.
But they seem to work better and last longer.
You’ll need an air compressor to blow out the pads between passes.

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

If i was to buy more pads for the shinemate, which pads should i go use the same as original shinemate ones in the kit? Which colours do you usually use the most?

I can't recall reading much about keeping pads clean whilst polishing other than brushing after every panel. Is there any other vital maintenance to a pad if i was to use several in a full day of polishing?

You can clean pads on the fly, but its messy and time consuming. I just swap to clean pads as I go and then clean them all at the end of the day, see below.

As for pad choice, welcome to paint correction! I have the below threads on pad and compound choices, but I'll post some specifics here too.

https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11500540
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11500475

I would stick with the ShineMate pads until you find your feet. You can then venture into Rupes and Lake Country pads. The supplied pads in the kit are the Black Diamond type, which apparently manage heat better and more forgiving to use. They are also affordable to get started with.

This is the ShineMate pad hierarchy, which is not universal by the way -

- Green Foam Heavy Cut Pad - Ideal for extremely heavy cut without compromising finish on medium to hard paint finishes

- Yellow Medium Cut Pad - Medium to Heavy cut while providing a high gloss finish, ideal on all paint systems

- Blue Foam Intermediate Pad - Excels at moderate to light defect removal on all paint systems whilst finishing down to a fantastic level

- Orange Universal Pad - Ideal for a variety of compounds on all paint types

- Red Finishing Pad - ideal for light defect removal and finishing on harder clear coats. Can be used as a medium cutting pad on softer clear coats.

- Gray Foam Ultra Soft Pad - Ideal for final finishing and application of waxes and sealants

I have not needed to go above the yellow, or below the blue on Ford paint. That doesn't mean you shouldn't have them in stock though, you always need to start with a less aggressive option first, and work your way up if needed.

In your case, I would order more of the blue and yellow ShineMates in Black Diamond spec. Probably another 3 of each, in 6'' size for a 5-inch backing plate. Either that or another pad kit with all three pads.

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...nt=19551685124
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...nt=19552092612
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/sh...31701204828249

Something to keep in mind, the previously mentioned S20 Black can do some serious cutting depending on the pad, if you are only trying to gloss things up rather than remove serious defects, then start with something like Carpro Reflect or Rupes DA Fine.

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...iant=641822125
https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...32113755455577

Originally Posted by bangm001

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

It's a good habit to blow out the pad after each set of passes. Just do it away from the car so you don't shower it with dust. You can also use a bucket with a small amount of water in it trap the dust.



From my experience, Scholl S20 is pretty dusty, I would also get some Carpro Eraser to help with the wipe off.

And a pad brush is worth having too. I use the Rupes Claw Pad Tool because it also doubles as a pad primer. It also looks good!

https://www.waxit.com.au/products/ru...12226723184729





In terms of cleaning, I do this at the end of the day. I chuck them in a bucket with APC or high pH soap and leave them to soak overnight. I then rinse them under warm water, applying more APC if needed, then I run them through the washing machine with microfiber detergent (I'm not taking responsibility if the wife objects to this by the way!). Air dry them and store in airtight containers.

[Top_Ghia]

Originally Posted by bangm001

I have a good compressor, do you just wash the pads after the days done then?

I simply chuck used pads in the washing machine with my microfiber towels with a dedicated microfiber wash fluid.
I usually splash a little of the fluid on the pad and work it in a bit. Then chuck them in the washing machine.
It seems to work just fine.

[FTE217]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B01zu7wuGA0
Here's a quick way to clean - I actually get them in warm water to soften up the polish and brush the face - works fine by me.
I get more Blue pads than others, therefore don't need many spares of the other colours pads.
As mentioned a pad looked after can last a year and more.
Why would you need to blow air after each pass.
My pads always staying moist, key is as mentioned do not over do it with the S20 or any polish.
The 3 or 4 drops is all you need.

[bangm001]

Again thankyou very much everyone!

[DFB FGXR6]

I've been wanting something like these for a while, but finally jumped when I had a request for something to help clean up vintage Campagnolo bike gear. In this case, I'll be using these on a Milwaukee Rotary Multi-tool.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/28448575...r=586051258634



For polishing cars, pads like these would be used to deal with door handle cups, wheels, exhaust tips or any hard-to-reach spot. While ShineMate and Flex produce an attachment for these pads, you need a rotary machine to drive it, in particular a Flex PXE-80 or the ShineMate EP803k or EB230k

https://www.waxit.com.au/collections...15974217547865
https://detailingshed.com.au/product...-extension-kit







I have no use for a rotary machine other than the iBrid Nano, so careful use of these pads with the multi-tool will have to do, although it won't offer the same level of fine control.

[bangm001]

Will report before and after results when I get a chance to have a good play! Just ended up with the shinemate ex305 and enthusiast shinemate group of pads. Not in pics is a few more polishes such as rupes DA course and fine which ill also play with, i already have pad cleaners, pad brushes etc in preparation for getting a polisher one day! Will start with the wife's black Mazda which is in desperate need of a polish, it has water marks and swirls etc. Ill then move on to my BA Typhoon in which iv only ever hand polished with autoglym (not a real cutting polish), and has never had a machine polish.



Here's a before pic of the typhoon, which as you can see since i'v owned it from 2007 its pretty much perfect from a small distance, but up close has many very light swirls etc visible using the detailing light, which im hoping get rid of with the shinemate. Its all original ford paint except for the front bar.




Next pic is the GT which had a polish / colour correct by a family friend a few years ago. Still has brilliant depth etc and again all ford paint except for the front bar. if you click on the pics they should go bigger.

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Will report before and after results when I get a chance to have a good play! Just ended up with the shinemate ex305 and enthusiast shinemate group of pads. Not in pics is a few more polishes such as rupes DA course and fine which ill also play with, i already have pad cleaners, pad brushes etc in preparation for getting a polisher one day! Will start with the wife's black Mazda which is in desperate need of a polish, it has water marks and swirls etc. Ill then move on to my BA Typhoon in which iv only ever hand polished with autoglym (not a real cutting polish), and has never had a machine polish.

image

Here's a before pic of the typhoon, which as you can see since i'v owned it from 2007 its pretty much perfect from a small distance, but up close has many very light swirls etc visible using the detailing light, which im hoping get rid of with the shinemate. Its all original ford paint except for the front bar.

image


Next pic is the GT which had a polish / colour correct by a family friend a few years ago. Still has brilliant depth etc and again all ford paint except for the front bar. if you click on the pics they should go bigger.


image

Excellent!

Mazda paint is typically soft, so make sure to start with the S30+ and the red pad, stepping to the blue if needed.

[bangm001]

Should I do the same with the typhoon, s30 and red shinemate pad to begin with?

[DFB FGXR6]

Originally Posted by bangm001

Should I do the same with the typhoon, s30 and red shinemate pad to begin with?

On the Typhoon, do a test section with the blue pad and S30 first, but you'll probably need S20 with the blue.

[DFB FGXR6]

This is why I think waxes and sealants still have a place....................



At the moment, I have three vehicles in my care with coatings, two of them daily drivers. The coating really makes cleaning so much easier, and keeps them cleaner for longer. Not to mention much quicker to dry. This is especially important on wheels.

But then I see what wax looks and feels like and I suddenly feel nostalgic. If a car spends 99% of its life in a garage, then does one need that ease of cleaning? Probably not. Waxes on the other hand has an edge in slickness and a richer gloss, they also seem to suit non-metallic flat red or white better.