Engine malfunction warning and P244C DTC

[AlCan]

Theory on filter, right or wrong, was that if the filter is getting clogged, there will be a lower return line flow (which supplies the DPF Fuel Pump), possibly insufficient for what is required, and that when the DPF Burn is attempted and the DPF Fuel Pump is activated, it might either lose prime by sucking backward from the fuel tank return and getting air - and thereby stop pumping at all, (or it simply won't get enough fuel to do the job.) But the more I think about this, the more I doubt that it's likely. If your car still pulls well at high throttle, then I imagine it's still getting plenty of fuel.

That said, I've had a couple of occasions when a DPF Burn has been active when I'm stopped, and I've heard what sounds like "fuel hammer" coming from the floor somewhere below or behind the rear passenger foot well. I haven't changed my fuel filter lately either and haven't yet started having DPF Burn issues, but the sound suggests significant pulses or fuel flow reversals are occurring in the return fuel line. Maybe I should change my own filter...

Another, better reason for changing fuel filters is that the resulting suction increase may possibly cause premature failure of the HP Fuel Pump oil seal, and lead to engine oil being returned to the fuel tank. (As has been discussed somewhere here.)

Alan Howatt seems to have succeeded in running a Manual Burn, but probably not using FORScan, which (comment) probably isn't a lot of help.

[NZ XR6]

Thanks for reminding me that my fuel filter is due! But I doubt that's the problem, unless the filter is badly clogged.

If the car is good otherwise, it is probably worth getting the vaporiser sorted. My MB wasn't running properly because the hoses to the differential pressure sensor were damaged, and it's a different car now that regens are keeping the DPF clean.

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[manchu]

Originally Posted by NZ XR6

If the car is good otherwise, it is probably worth getting the vaporiser sorted.

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It’s far from good unfortunately.
-very hail damaged. I bought back from insurance for $2k 5yrs ago
- needs tyres
- needs some front end bushes? done to stop it killing tyres and wheel hopping
- drivers door and driver side passenger door hinges buggered
- trans service due soon
- flywheel seems about to fail
- needs a new tail light

[NZ XR6]

Originally Posted by manchu

It’s far from good unfortunately.

-very hail damaged. I bought back from insurance for $2k 5yrs ago

- needs tyres

- needs some front end bushes? done to stop it killing tyres and wheel hopping

- drivers door and driver side passenger door hinges buggered

- trans service due soon

- flywheel seems about to fail

- needs a new tail light

Fair enough! You've probably had your money's worth.

I'm in a similar place with mine, it's just not worth spending a lot of money on it.

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[AlCan]

Flywheel??? The MC doesn't have a DMF, so wondering what are the symptoms? Maybe loose & rattling clutch springs?

Have you pulled out the Vapouriser or checked the pump? Or just not keen to get that dirty!?

[manchu]

Originally Posted by AlCan

Flywheel??? The MC doesn't have a DMF, so wondering what are the symptoms? Maybe loose & rattling clutch springs?

Have you pulled out the Vapouriser or checked the pump? Or just not keen to get that dirty!?

It doesn’t? I got the idea here. https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11499506

Haven’t physically checked anything. Happy enough to get dirty so more a lack of knowledge, tools, space and time. Generally don’t diy. Figure it’s a $1k bill if my usual mechanic (assuming a new vaporizer) so have pretty much ruled that out.

[AlCan]

[Can't quote, don't know why]

Anyway, that's right, no DMF until MD (2015-on), which has the "6DCT451" transmission.

I actually looked at a (2012) MC Flywheel just yesterday - would have taken a photo if I'd known. Anyway, if your engine looks like this https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/c...ing/4615517072 (if the link works), then it's 2011-2014, the TED4 engine, which I promise, only has a lightweight, 'standard' (light single mass) flywheel. The damper springs are inside the clutch drum on these models, and there's a dog drive to the transmission.

So, if it's really knocking like the one in the Alan Howatt video (an MD with a DMF and manual transmission), then I don't know what the heck! I'd be nervous driving it, and don't know what the problem is. If it's not so loud, like in the first video, I'd suspect it's very loose damper springs - all the plastic bits are destroyed and gone - but I don't have that experience. I imagine the starts will be prone to shudder, and the changes will be jerky.

Anyway, if that's the case, the Sump (Primary) Filter will very likely be getting very clogged and could rupture at any minute, due to metal filings from the springs wearing against the clutch "drum" tunnels. So that might be the end of the debate.

As for the comment in the other thread "Mechanic said" - disregard. Most mechanics know next to nothing about these cars. These models are so mechanically different from one Mark to the next that it's very hard to keep up.

Regarding the vaporiser, I suspect the easiest first step to answering this is to find out what diameter the tube that feeds diesel from the DPF Burn fuel pump to the vaporiser is and go buy a metre or so of PVC tubing. Disconnect the feed tube off the vaporiser and hook the PVC on. Then simply blow into the other end. If you can't blow any air through, it's blocked... (May be hard to tell. If so, see if you can get a small slug of diesel into the tube, (non-mouth end) and see if it moves along when you blow.) If you can, it may be the pump, but look around all the feed hoses in case there's a kink or something. I think there's a pump test function in FORScan, but never tried it. I think Alan Howatt has a video showing the items, locations etc.

[AlCan]

This link:
https://trademe.tmcdn.co.nz/photoser...2127655202.jpg