AU Speakers, is new wiring required?

b2tf · 18-01-2008, 08:34 PM

Hi all

just a quick query, when installing new speakers into an AU, do you have to put new wiring in, or is it just something you'd do to make it a better job. Ie do I have to go to the trouble of doing it, or can I just use the existing wire with the new speakers.

Ta

**Stav** · 18-01-2008, 08:41 PM

It depends on how much more power you are pumping into the doors.If you have gone super high then youll need bigger wiring.The stock wiring is not too bad for the first few hundred watts.

b2tf · 18-01-2008, 09:02 PM

Thanks Stav, now fr round 2, how deep a speaker can i fit in the front doors? The ones Im looking at are 2.5" deep, am I going to have issues fitting something that deep in there?

StealthAu · 18-01-2008, 09:04 PM

They'll fit with room to spare

b2tf · 18-01-2008, 09:10 PM

bewdy, thanks. should work well then.

**Stav** · 18-01-2008, 09:12 PM

Put whatever you want..at the end of the day if the windows dont open all the way air conditioning works a treat:P

b2tf · 18-01-2008, 09:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stav

Put whatever you want..at the end of the day if the windows dont open all the way air conditioning works a treat:P

: very true

StealthAu · 18-01-2008, 10:19 PM

Also with the first question of the wirring. I don't think it is really needed, also the only way I was able to replace mine involved removing the ECU for the access required to do the passanger side. Only real issue you may have with ussing the factory wirring, is there isn't much of it as in length. Once you cut the plug off, if you stuff up trying to strip them you might be in a bit of trouble.

ronwest · 18-01-2008, 11:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2tf

do you have to put new wiring in, or is it just something you'd do to make it a better job. Ie do I have to go to the trouble of doing it, or can I just use the existing wire with the new speakers.

As mentioned the stock wiring is fine for most of us.
I had planned to upgrade the door wiring when I did my aftermarket stuff but a quick search regarding those molex? door connectors cured me of that.

As I plan to reinstall the stock sound when I sell the car I spliced and soldered new speaker wires onto the existing wires (which will allow me to utilise the original plug in future).

I took a bunch of pics when I did my installation so if you get stuck just whistle and I'll put a few up.

schuldiner · 18-01-2008, 11:45 PM

you don't need to remove the ECU i did mine without removing anything but the door trim and pulling some of the plastic flooring up a little. b2tf ran his wiring for his courtesy lights with a bit of fiddling. i replaced mine for peace of mind and seeing as i was running an amp i needed to anyway it doesn't cost a hell of a lot, so in my opinion is worth doing if you have the time/patience...

StealthAu · 19-01-2008, 12:43 AM

Can you explain how you ran the passanger side cable?

HLC · 19-01-2008, 10:48 AM

i left the original plugs on my speakers too. i just got those little male/female electrical connector things, put them on the ends of the wires that go straight to the speaker, and plugged them into the factory loom. which means they'll swap straight out if my car goes bye bye one day.

KOUPE76 · 19-01-2008, 11:32 AM

WTF, I laugh when you guys pull the ECU to get wirirng into the doors

:
Really simple, get a coat hanger and straight in out, bend 1 end rite round to have a rounded tip and then push through from the door side into the existing black sock in which the cables are already running through and you will see it trying to poke out into the cabin, make a tiny cut in the insulation and bingo.
NOT HARD AT ALL, :togo:

b2tf · 19-01-2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLUPRNT XR8

WTF, I laugh when you guys pull the ECU to get wirirng into the doors

:
Really simple, get a coat hanger and straight in out, bend 1 end rite round to have a rounded tip and then push through from the door side into the existing black sock in which the cables are already running through and you will see it trying to poke out into the cabin, make a tiny cut in the insulation and bingo.
NOT HARD AT ALL, :togo:

In my experience it was a right of a job to do, mainly because I couldnt locate the wire behind the insulation, but a lucky cut got me through it and i found it. It can be done without moving the ECU but i would by no means say its an easy job. Then again maybe I'm just not as wonderful?

ronwest · 20-01-2008, 12:31 AM

Well, I've learned something.

When I was gathering the bits for my install, an installer told me there was a molex plug behind the rubber boot. I actually peeled the rubber back a bit and could see the plastic "plug" behind it.
I went and had a close look today and sure enough there ain't no molex plug there, just a plastic surround... doh!

I'm actually glad I didn't muck around with door wiring, though. I'm not the doof doof guy and it's plenty good enough for my old ears with the factory wiring.

XR8 Uterous · 20-01-2008, 01:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2tf

In my experience it was a right of a job to do, mainly because I couldnt locate the wire behind the insulation, but a lucky cut got me through it and i found it. It can be done without moving the ECU but i would by no means say its an easy job. Then again maybe I'm just not as wonderful?

Was thinking the same thing, it was an absolute pain to do when we were doing it, thank god i chose to do the drivers side

KOUPE76 · 20-01-2008, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2tf

It can be done without moving the ECU but i would by no means say its an easy job. Then again maybe I'm just not as wonderful?

It's easy, LOL

:

b2tf · 20-01-2008, 05:39 PM

c'mhere and give us a cuddle

:

KOUPE76 · 20-01-2008, 05:44 PM

Don't worry Aust. I still loves ya, after all we have the same taste in cars. :evil3:

b2tf · 29-01-2008, 10:42 PM

Sorry to dig up an old thread, but rather than start a new one I thought Id ask a few things Im not sure about in here.

The 5x7s turned up today, and they're going in the rear, so before I go and stuff them, how do you get the covers off the rear speakers in the utes?

Second q - Ive been advised to get an amp for the new setup. What I am looking at is a 4 channel amp given there's 4 speakers (and theyre all splits). 1 channel for each speaker, does this sound right? And if so, is there anything in particular an amp should have? Im VERY new to amps so I do need a bit of a hand with this one.

Final q - since Im keeping the factory HU for a bit, can you run an amp from it, and how do you go about doing it?

Ta

StealthAu · 29-01-2008, 10:48 PM

If your keeping the stock headunit, just wire up the speakers and see if you are happy with the sound. To hook up an amp to your factory headunit, it needs to be pulled apart and have pre-outs soldered in. You can also get high-low coverters, but don't. They are a waste of cash. My sugestion is, if you aren't happy with the sound, think you need an amp, get a new head unit.

b2tf · 30-01-2008, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stockoau

If your keeping the stock headunit, just wire up the speakers and see if you are happy with the sound. To hook up an amp to your factory headunit, it needs to be pulled apart and have pre-outs soldered in. You can also get high-low coverters, but don't. They are a waste of cash. My sugestion is, if you aren't happy with the sound, think you need an amp, get a new head unit.

Ok, thanks for that, what sort of figures does a new headunit need to be putting out to make these speakers sound ok?

StealthAu · 30-01-2008, 06:06 PM

It all depends on what you want, new speakers hooked up to your new headunit will be an improvement. If you want more get any decent head unit, most are putting out 45-50watts per channel peak. If you do decide to get a headunit, just make sure it has 4ch pre-outs, so if latter down the track you want a slight improvment you can then add the amp. What sort of speakers did you get?

james22 · 30-01-2008, 06:09 PM

Head unit figures will mean SFA if your gonna run an amp. The figures the head units give you (50x4 for example) Is the amplification power of the head unit, which means nothing because you intend on running your speakers through a separate amp. So you can get whatever you like, as long as it has pre-outs.

edit beat me to it ^^^^

b2tf · 30-01-2008, 06:45 PM

Well I want to try and do either one or the other, so if the stock HU cant take an amp, Ill just buy a new HU. If I get one with 4 preouts, and 50wx4 camp builtin, that should do the job right? Ive seen a few Alpine ones I like that have these figures, so if it works, I'll do it that way.

Whats a stock 6 stacker worth anyway?

JMO · 30-01-2008, 07:21 PM

I've just recently bought a 4-channel amp and HU with two RCA outputs (are these pre-outs?). I bought the amp with the intention of running the rears and a sub, but started to get an 'airy' distortion in the rears so pulled the wires. So now i have a 4-channel amp running my 1000W(300W RMS) sub at 120W RMS.

I'm still tossing around the idea of running wire to the speakers because of the distortion i've already had. I used a factory ground point in the boot that was a metal clip on painted metal. i also used two bits of speaker wire for each speaker that were soldered together and insulted insulated with electrical tape. Could either of these be the reason for the distortion or is it something else?

The sound from the speakers on factory wiring seems ok. Would the only benefit of giving them more power be louder music or would it give me better quality sound? Same question goes for the sub.

Also can anyone recommend a good monoblock to power the sub?

Thanks.

StealthAu · 30-01-2008, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JMO

I've just recently bought a 4-channel amp and HU with two RCA outputs (are these pre-outs?). I bought the amp with the intention of running the rears and a sub, but started to get an 'airy' distortion in the rears so pulled the wires. So now i have a 4-channel amp running my 1000W(300W RMS) sub at 120W RMS.

I'm still tossing around the idea of running wire to the speakers because of the distortion i've already had. I used a factory ground point in the boot that was a metal clip on painted metal. i also used two bits of speaker wire for each speaker that were soldered together and insulted insulated with electrical tape. Could either of these be the reason for the distortion or is it something else?

The sound from the speakers on factory wiring seems ok. Would the only benefit of giving them more power be louder music or would it give me better quality sound? Same question goes for the sub.

Also can anyone recommend a good monoblock to power the sub?

Thanks.

What speakers did you have the amp hooked up to? stocks?

JMO · 30-01-2008, 09:58 PM

new pioneers. can't remember the model but 120W peak (i think). fronts are jbl.

blackers10 · 30-01-2008, 10:18 PM

make sure the amp is set to FULL otherwise you will only get HIGH or LOW frequencys..

2 rca's.. is that 2 pairs or just 1 red and 1 white ??

JMO · 31-01-2008, 08:43 AM

2 pairs.

I asked this before, but it's in the middle of a huge post. Will giving the speakers and amp more power make the sound clearer or just give them the ability to go louder?